OP
OP
I could be wrong. But I know the uke I have commissioned will have a graduated radius, not constant.
Radiuses fretboards on production ukes?
- Thread starter Patty
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OP
OP
See the edit I added to that post. I shouldn’t have assumed that ALL ukulele radiuses are constant rather than graduated. Sorry.
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OP
OP
See my edit. Mea culpa!
I just compared and cannot give a definitive answer on the feel because the BR has a higher tension string set (other is likely a 16" radiused throughout). Visually the BR is much more noticed with the 12" on the nut end. It looks more "matched" on the length of the fretboard which makes sense since it widens toward the bridge as the string spacing increases. I am currently happy with both, as I am with the nonradiused KoAloha Red label that I have.
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Neil_O
Well-known member
Most guitars I have played have a constant radius, but the common term for a radiused fretboard at the nut gradually becoming flatter towards the bridge is a Compound Radius. The idea is that you will be more likely to solo individual notes down near the 12th-15th fret and perform barre chords closer to the nut. On a guitar, the compound radius may allow the player to bend strings further without 'fretting out'. Not being able to bend a note as far was more common on old Fender electrics that had a 7.25" radius. More modern Fenders are 9.5" I believe.
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Excellent choice on your spruce and myrtle wood pairing. I have a Koo’lau in spruce and myrtle and I love the way it sounds. My LfdM super tenor is cedar and myrtle, so yea I like myrtle, lol.
Waiting on a custom build is hard but worth it. Ask Allen to send you pictures of the process, if he does that. You could even start a “build in progress” thread and share the experience with the rest of us.
DuckyI
Well-known member
In the absence of a radiused uke for the moment, why not try some different strings, in combination with hand stretches and smart practice?
As skill on an instrument develops, one can usually play in more efficient and effortless ways. What seems hard now might be less hard in a few months with dedicated practice. Also, hand flexibility is something that can very much be trained, just look at guitarists and pianists. I realise you are dealing with arthritis but I believe the latest research argues that frequent exercise is a benefit.
A Timms has relatively high frets (which might help) - do you have one? I can't remember.
As skill on an instrument develops, one can usually play in more efficient and effortless ways. What seems hard now might be less hard in a few months with dedicated practice. Also, hand flexibility is something that can very much be trained, just look at guitarists and pianists. I realise you are dealing with arthritis but I believe the latest research argues that frequent exercise is a benefit.
A Timms has relatively high frets (which might help) - do you have one? I can't remember.
Which other ukulele brands have high frets ?
DuckyI
Well-known member
I'm not sure, I will let others chime in on this.
OP
OP
Yes, I currently have two ukes, a Timms and a Romero Creations signature soprano (the one with the big body). I plan to change next to Uke Logics on both, then to Fremont blackies, to see if I like those better.
And you are so right about practice over time. I can make lots of the stretches that I couldn’t do in the first 6-8 months that I was playing. Barres still elude me, though. One in particular in a Bach piece: pinky at 10th fret and the other strings barred at the 7th with index finger. Sounds like holy hell! Can … NOT .. do … it. Damn.
OP
OP
When I requested higher, crowned frets instead of low round ones for my Barron River concert, Allen said he customarily does this.
OP
OP
Reviving this thread to send along a crackerjack guide to radiused fretboards, for anyone confused by the terminology and the mechanics. It’s from a website about guitar luthiery, but the principles are the same—why the degree of radius is described in inches, what are compound vs. constant radiuses, why have a radius at all, and what’s involved in making one. Great illustrations.
theelectricluthier.com
A Compound Radius Fretboard -Your Guide - Electric guitar lutherie, DIY, repair and maintenance
A compound radius neck is a neck that has one radius at the nut and a different, larger radius at the heel of the neck. This is meant to give a better playing experience for both rhythm playing towards the nut side of the fretboard, and soloing towards the heel side.
theelectricluthier.com
Nickie
Well-known member
Thanks Patty. I won't buy an ukulele without it.
Jannik Lindquist
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The Ace R 65 Cedar/Rosewood tenor has a radiused fretboard - and ball end frets. I find it to be one of the most playable ukuleles I have ever tried.
I have a Soprano and Long Neck Soprano from Cocobolo. Both are very easy to play (1-3/8" nut) and both are Radiused. Plus they were not outlandish in price. Kevin from Cocobolo can even have a custom built. I'm doing that for a shorter 16-1/2" Tenor with a bigger Tenor Body. Although this will be more costly due to its one of special build.
Hank - Kimo Ukulele also builds with a radius, but I think only Tenor. His instruments are beautiful and easy to play. His builds cost (as of this post) from $1550 and up depending on if bigger body, pickup, fancy shmancy wood, etc
Current Kimos for sale
Also Stigma Guitars is on par cost wise to Pono at $550-650 and he'll build with a radius
www.stigmaguitars.com
Hank - Kimo Ukulele also builds with a radius, but I think only Tenor. His instruments are beautiful and easy to play. His builds cost (as of this post) from $1550 and up depending on if bigger body, pickup, fancy shmancy wood, etc
Current Kimos for sale
Also Stigma Guitars is on par cost wise to Pono at $550-650 and he'll build with a radius
Stigma Guitars
A custom musical instrument builder in Meridian, Idaho specializing in handcrafted guitars and ukuleles.
www.stigmaguitars.com
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Smallchewbacca
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I think the anuenue Singer series also have radiused fretboards.
