Arcy
Strummin' in the Rain
To paraphrase Bobby McFerrin: Don't worry. Fret less.So going fretless will solve this problem... no, fretless is also mispeled...
To paraphrase Bobby McFerrin: Don't worry. Fret less.So going fretless will solve this problem... no, fretless is also mispeled...
To paraphrase Bobby McFerrin: Don't worry. Fret less.
Does anyone know of tenor ukuleles with a radius fretboards that might conceivably be found in music stores? Ibanez UEWT5 and UEW5TE Tenors are the only ones I have found.I recommend you try to get to a music store and try out a uke that has one and see if you like it.
I have two ukes with a radius fretboard. My Pono PC seems to have more of a radius than my Enya. I like both but the Pono, often slammed with the notoriously misleading "narrow nut and thick neck" is among the easiest to play of all my ukuleles. The Enya fretboard is wider and the radius seems less pronounced to the point I rarely notice it.I am in the process of ordering a slightly customized tenor and I need to decide which fingerboard to request. I have read many posts by people who are convinced that radiused fretboards enhance their performance, but only a relatively few by people who disagree. I have no experience with radiused fretboards. I am a former performer on classical guitar and a folksinger before that (1960s!), and I expect that I eventually will be able to play in a few different styles. Do you think radiused fretboards make playing (or certain types of playing) more difficult Thank you for your input.
I am in the process of ordering a slightly customized tenor and I need to decide which fingerboard to request. I have read many posts by people who are convinced that radiused fretboards enhance their performance, but only a relatively few by people who disagree. I have no experience with radiused fretboards. I am a former performer on classical guitar and a folksinger before that (1960s!), and I expect that I eventually will be able to play in a few different styles. Do you think radiused fretboards make playing (or certain types of playing) more difficult Thank you for your input.
Yeah... true of most, make that all, threads asking for members' opinions.I am the OP and I want to thank everyone for their suggestions. It seems the range of opinions about radius ranges from: "they are great" to "they may be good, but they are not nessesary, and not worth the extra cost." Am I getting that right?
I hope I am capable because I am not young (except at heart).you should be able to adapt to either if you are younger and capable.
Classical guitars have flat fretboards. Until recently you’d only find radiused fretboards in electric guitars. To the OP’s question, I prefer flat boards, especially on something as narrow and an ukulele FB. With my two personal MBUs one is flat and the other is radiused. I really can’t tell the difference between them. One kind slightly favors the right hand, the other, the left hand. So it really depends on your playing style and what you are used to. Keep in mind if your uke board has a radius over 16” you might have a moment of adjustment switching back to an uke with a flat board. Most of the pro musicians I know play ukes with flat FBs but would have no problem playing with either. The radiused board seems to be especially helpful to players to don’t have much experience or have physical impairments. Focus on your practice time and you will become equally adept on either.I can’t imagine a radius making any type of playing more difficult. In fact, guitar fretboards are usually radiused.
I’ve ordered a concert from Barron River, to be built in January, and his instruments all have the same compound radius: the curvature of the FB is graduated from 12” at the nut to 16” at the end.Is there a recommended radius for concert scale ? 12 inch ?
Interesting. I think this means it gets flatter. What will be the radius for the saddle?I’ve ordered a concert from Barron River, to be built in January, and his instruments all have the same compound radius: the curvature of the FB is graduated from 12” at the nut to 16” at the end.
Beats me! My guess is 16 at saddle, 12 at nut?Interesting. I think this means it gets flatter. What will be the radius for the saddle?
Can confirm visually that the nut is the same as the first fret, so 12. Agree that the bridge is likely 16. Can testify that it is a great sounding and playing ukulele!Beats me! My guess is 16 at saddle, 12 at nut?
Just when it seemed like I could stop thinking about radius fretboards...
What about capos? Are there capos for radius fretboards? Or do I need to forget about being capable and become a virtuoso (and play effortlessly in any key) or a millionaire (and own multiple radiused ukes)?