top thickness classical guitar

[Mystic]

HI All
Trying my hand at making a classical guitar - walnut sides and back and cedar top
got a bit of drift on the bandsaw when cutting the top and by the time I planed it even and sanded it is 2.1 mm thick
Anyone know if that is too thin for a top or whether once braced it will be ok.

All advice welcome

Mystic

 

[Ms Bean]

It might be a good idea to report your own post to the moderators with a request to move it to the Luthiers Lounge. Over there you will probably find builders to chime in.

 

[engravertom]

HI All
Trying my hand at making a classical guitar - walnut sides and back and cedar top
got a bit of drift on the bandsaw when cutting the top and by the time I planed it even and sanded it is 2.1 mm thick
Anyone know if that is too thin for a top or whether once braced it will be ok.

All advice welcome

Mystic

I’m guessing that it would be considered on the thin side. Might be perfect for a renaissance lute!

Perhaps a smaller body size, different bracing, and low tension might work also.

Kudos for starting a build!!!

 

[gilles T]

Hello,
I'm not a luthier so please take my advice with a (big) grain of salt.
I have several instruments rather "heavily built"(guitars, lutes and ukes as well), with thick soundboards, but they all eventually sound well with some heavy strumming once a day, as to "wake up" the sound.

My empirical deduction is : if the top is on thicker side, brace lightly ; if the top is thin, brace stronger.
Whatever the way you build, any stringed instrument will react to the way it is played on a day to day basis. Even sturdy and cheap ukuleles have their "sweet spot" depending on string tension, pitch, and right hand hand pressure.
Hope this helps.