I'm rather fond of the crab, myself, but conceptually love the visual pun of the pine apple.
Thanks for the clue! It whizzed by me when I first read it, but I get it now. I like it too. It would surely elevate this ukulele from famous to fabulous stature.I'm rather fond of the crab, myself, but conceptually love the visual pun of the pine apple.
I like No. 1.I’m debating with myself about painting the soundboard. If I do it, I won't do another yowling cat because one copy of Kenny Hill's 1971-copyrighted Yowl-A-Lele is enough.
When cartoonist, teacher and musician Robert Armstrong first painted his cartoons on ukes in the mid- 1960’s, he only painted cheapies found at flea markets and yard sales, and only much later paired up with Kenny Hill of Hill Guitars to ramp up to custom versions. My favorite Armstrong design is Through-The-Keyhole.
Here are the three soundhole- oriented designs I'm presently considering, and a fourth tongue-in-cheek option is either a can of Dole pineapple or a thicket of pine trees bearing apples
If you feel strongly that I should go with one of these rather than "Yowling Thomette", please let me know.
OPTION 1 - Clownfish
View attachment 156216
OPTION 2 - Tall ship helm
View attachment 156220
OPTION 3 - Clarence Crab
View attachment 156221
I love all three especially the clown fish, that one is a bit mind bending! I think if I chose one I'd pick the ship deck because I love ships!I’m debating with myself about painting the soundboard. If I do it, I won't do another yowling cat because one copy of Kenny Hill's 1971-copyrighted Yowl-A-Lele is enough.
When cartoonist, teacher and musician Robert Armstrong first painted his cartoons on ukes in the mid- 1960’s, he only painted cheapies found at flea markets and yard sales, and only much later paired up with Kenny Hill of Hill Guitars to ramp up to custom versions. My favorite Armstrong design is Through-The-Keyhole.
Here are the three soundhole- oriented designs I'm presently considering, and a fourth tongue-in-cheek option is either a can of Dole pineapple or a thicket of pine trees bearing apples
If you feel strongly that I should go with one of these rather than "Yowling Thomette", please let me know.
OPTION 1 - Clownfish
View attachment 156216
OPTION 2 - Tall ship helm
View attachment 156220
OPTION 3 - Clarence Crab
View attachment 156221
The extent of purling is thin, non-notched strips of Masonite. There is a neck joint block and a strap button block but no bridge block. I’m really flummoxed by the lack of a bridge block.That's a revelation. Is there purfling? It's like you said, a learning experience.
Mahalo everyone, I am glad I was able to help. I am somewhat alarmed by the lack of a bridge plate, which likely had a hand in the bridge failure in the first place. If there are no braces in the way, I would consider adding one. This is a case where rare earth magnets are great.The extent of purling is thin, non-notched strips of Masonite. There is a neck joint block and a strap button block but no bridge block. I’m really flummoxed by the lack of a bridge block.
Thanks, Brad, for the guidance. There are no braces in the way, and I have an idea of how to relatively easily retro-fit a bridge plate. My interim concern is how well Tite Bond will adhere to MDF on either the plate side or the top. I suppose that remains to be seen but tempts me to go with CA glue instead.Mahalo everyone, I am glad I was able to help. I am somewhat alarmed by the lack of a bridge plate, which likely had a hand in the bridge failure in the first place. If there are no braces in the way, I would consider adding one. This is a case where rare earth magnets are great.
Brad
Mahalo everyone, I am glad I was able to help. I am somewhat alarmed by the lack of a bridge plate, which likely had a hand in the bridge failure in the first place. If there are no braces in the way, I would consider adding one. This is a case where rare earth magnets are great.
Brad
I would stick with Titebond (Pun intended). Let me know if you can use this. Will only cost me a stamp to mail it to you. One way to insure correct alignment is to drill a couple of tiny holes in the top and use old string to pull up the plate against the top, then magnets to clamp. The holes won’t show as you plan to paint it anyway.Thanks, Brad, for the guidance. There are no braces in the way, and I have an idea of how to relatively easily retro-fit a bridge plate. My interim concern is how well Tite Bond will adhere to MDF on either the plate side or the top. I suppose that remains to be seen but tempts me to go with CA glue instead.
Thank you for the kind offer, and for the additional guidance. Please mail at your convenience.I would stick with Titebond (Pun intended). Let me know if you can use this. Will only cost me a stamp to mail it to you. One way to insure correct alignment is to drill a couple of tiny holes in the top and use old string to pull up the plate against the top, then magnets to clamp. The holes won’t show as you plan to paint it anyway.View attachment 156331
I think this is the video of Bridge installation.The Eagle has landed. Well, in this case, it’s more of a pigeon but you get the gist.
Thanks to @Ernie for the uke itself, to @BuzzBD for making and shipping the new mahogany bridge, to @Renaissance-Man for giving me the heads-up about the uke in the first place and for your kind words of encouragement, thanks to @EDW for suggesting that I contact Brad (BuzzBD), to Kevin Beddoe of John Kinnard Guitars for bridge removal guidance, to Ken Timms for his wonderfully well-made bridge installation video.
I think this is the video of Bridge installation.
While you are waiting for the bridge patch, fit your magnets with dowel handles as shown in the picture. This makes working with them easier.I’ve settled on an original “SPAM-ous with pineapple” motif that will feature a can of SPAM between bridge and soundhole, and a slice of grilled pineapple around the soundhole behind & above that.
For now, I’ve loosened the strings to remove tension while awaiting delivery of Brad’s bridge block.