New bridge for soprano uke

[Saddler]

Hello, I decided to remove the screwed bridge on my Sheffield ukulele (a very cheap hand made uke bought at Lidl) because it wasn't attached very well to the body. Considering that I want to change the tuning pegs, pre-amplify the instrument and change the colour, I decided to buy a rosewood bridge that reminds of a guitar pickup that I want to glue on it.

The problem that I am having is that the whole distance of the bridge I bought is different from the one that uke had installed. I am a complete newbie so I don't know if it is okay on installing it. Will this affect the sound of my instrument?




these are the product measures:

 

[Smallchewbacca]

The increase in width between the strings will ever so slightly increase their length. This will most likely cause some intonation problems. It will also change the path of your G and A strings enough that they might uncomfortably close to the edges of your fretboard.

 

[Saddler]

The increase in width between the strings will ever so slightly increase their length. This will most likely cause some intonation problems. It will also change the path of your G and A strings enough that they might uncomfortably close to the edges of your fretboard.

Hey Small Chewbacca, thank you for your reply!
Do you think would be a bad idea if I cover those holes with a plastic wood filler and make new ones with the same measures of the original bridge I removed?

 

[Oldscruggsfan]

Speaking out of turn since the question was asked of @Smallchewbacca, but:
If this were my uke, I’d do exactly what you propose, especially since the color (black) will be easy to match/ remedy after you’ve drilled the new holes.

As to filler, I’ve had great results with 2-part epoxy wood filler (stocked locally under the brand “PC Woody”) but it’s tough to work with in very small quantities because of its stickiness. Best part is that after drying it has greater strength than wood but can be sanded or drilled just like wood. When mixed, it’s a dark gray color.

In my experience the filler that comes in squeezable tubes is worthless.

 

[badhabits]

you're going from a tie bridge to a pin bridge.. even though you are just beginning methinks this project is starting to go down a long rabbit hole, extending the planned cost and time of the transformation. in the end you might look back and think it woulda been cheaper/faster to start anew

 

[Saddler]

Speaking out of turn since the question was asked of @Smallchewbacca, but:
If this were my uke, I’d do exactly what you propose, especially since the color (black) will be easy to match/ remedy after you’ve drilled the new holes.

As to filler, I’ve had great results with 2-part epoxy wood filler (stocked locally under the brand “PC Woody”) but it’s tough to work with in very small quantities because of its stickiness. Best part is that after drying it has greater strength than wood but can be sanded or drilled just like wood. When mixed, it’s a dark gray color.

In my experience the filler that comes in squeezable tubes is worthless.

hey Oldscruggsfan, thank you for the product suggestion, a product recommendation was going to be my next question! And thank you for the feedback about your experience!

you're going from a tie bridge to a pin bridge.. even though you are just beginning methinks this project is starting to go down a long rabbit hole, extending the planned cost and time of the transformation. in the end you might look back and think it woulda been cheaper/faster to start anew

hi badhabits, I actually want to use the new bridge to get the strings through of it, I don't like the pins, so I will save for something else, and yes, I agree, I could have bought another cheap uke, but I really want to customise this one

 

[rainbow21]

Is it an option to get another bridge that matches the orig?

 

[Saddler]

Is it an option to get another bridge that matches the orig?

hi rainbow before opening this thread, I was thinking to buy a new one too, but I really like the pickup aesthetics of this one (considering also how I want to paint the uke) so I want to give a try on what Oldscruggsfan suggested above before

 

[Oldscruggsfan]

I completely understand your thought process. Even with all the other mods I’ve done on Yowling Tom, I’ve kept the original plastic bridge. It just works. No idea of the proper term for that bridge footprint. As I understand it, “winged” is a different shape. I like to think of it as “diving falcon”.

EDIT: That bridge shape made proper placement for scale length far more difficult than it should have been when I first assembled the Kraftex kit in January 2022.

 

[Saddler]

I completely understand your thought process. Even with all the other mods I’ve done on Yowling Tom, I’ve kept the original plastic bridge. It just works. No idea of the proper term for that bridge footprint. As I understand it, “winged” is a different shape. I like to think of it as “diving falcon”.

EDIT: That bridge shape made proper placement for scale length far more difficult than it should have been when I first assembled the Kraftex kit in January 2022.
View attachment 162312

That's a cool design, I love it!

 

[Oldscruggsfan]

That's a cool design, I love it!

Thank you! It’s my version of (homage to) the Yowl-A-Lele built and copyrighted in 1971 by Kenny Hill of Hill Guitars and painted by Robert Armstrong of R Crumb And His Cheap Suit Serenaders, whose artwork also appeared on CF Martin’s line of low-end Cowboy guitars.

 

[Uke-alot]

The increase in width between the strings will ever so slightly increase their length. This will most likely cause some intonation problems. It will also change the path of your G and A strings enough that they might uncomfortably close to the edges of your fretboard.

I wouldn't worry about the change in string length causing intonation problems, because it's a tiny change and the worst case is that you can make a new saddle that compensates for that if necessary.

The second concern about changing the path of the strings is a bigger deal. However, you should be able to check that easily by placing the new bridge in the correct position and using a straight edge (or taught string) to see where the strings fall on the fret board with wider spacing.

 

[anthonyg]

Retro fitting a string through bridge, where previously there was none, is one of those projects where fools rush in where angels fear to tread.
I highly doubt that any experience luither would take on such a job for many reasons.
Even as a learning exercise, you would want access to under the top to make an appropriate plate to fit under the bridge.
An experienced builder would want to take either the top or the back off for access and now its a really serious job.

 

[DuckyI]

It's only worth doing if you enjoy the process, I think, or as a learning exercise for building and repair. I would certainly echo going with another tie bridge or a Martin style bridge rather than a pin bridge.

Inter alia, I have never really understood pin bridges on small ukes - it feels like they add a lot of mass (and thereby mute the top somewhat) without much benefit.

 

[Saddler]

I wouldn't worry about the change in string length causing intonation problems, because it's a tiny change and the worst case is that you can make a new saddle that compensates for that if necessary.

The second concern about changing the path of the strings is a bigger deal. However, you should be able to check that easily by placing the new bridge in the correct position and using a straight edge (or taught string) to see where the strings fall on the fret board with wider spacing.

hi Uke-alot, I bought some epoxy to fill the original holes of the new bridge to make the new ones with the same width and distance of the original bridge that was installed before
Interesting the technique to check where the string falls on the fretboard!

 

[Saddler]

Retro fitting a string through bridge, where previously there was none, is one of those projects where fools rush in where angels fear to tread.
I highly doubt that any experience luither would take on such a job for many reasons.
Even as a learning exercise, you would want access to under the top to make an appropriate plate to fit under the bridge.
An experienced builder would want to take either the top or the back off for access and now its a really serious job.

I am putting myself in a lots of troubles haha

 

[Saddler]

It's only worth doing if you enjoy the process, I think, or as a learning exercise for building and repair. I would certainly echo going with another tie bridge or a Martin style bridge rather than a pin bridge.

Inter alia, I have never really understood pin bridges on small ukes - it feels like they add a lot of mass (and thereby mute the top somewhat) without much benefit.

Martin style bridge will be the next choice in future for sure!

 

[Uke-alot]

hi Uke-alot, I bought some epoxy to fill the original holes of the new bridge to make the new ones with the same width and distance of the original bridge that was installed before
Interesting the technique to check where the string falls on the fretboard!

I would check to see if the string path is a real problem before filling and redrilling holes. You might be fine.

 

[Saddler]

hello, I have been able to fill the bridge holes with some epoxy and made new holes with the same string distance space from the old screwed bridge, plus a new hole for the piezo pickup, still thank you for sharing your experience and your help


Now I have to attach it to the soprano's body. I still have some tape left for the old bridge position, but considered the old bridge wasn't attached correctly to the body, I want to try to calculate the new bridge position to see if it matches the old one.

My only doubt is the bridge compensation, which I am struggling to understand of how it works and how to calculate it.

Let's say for example I know the distance from the nut to the saddle, let's say 33cm. Is the compensation of the saddle an addition in mm of the previous mentioned distance?

Or the compensation is the adjustment of the action of the saddle?

Or it means both?

 

[anthonyg]

I don't want to be a jerk, but, please do a search of saddle compensation or bridge placement.
We discuss it often, and its quite technical. So please search for what's already been written on it, numerous times.