Vintage Kamaka HF-1 - is it real and how to determine authenticity?

GeoffHW

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Hello,

I found what looks to be a 70s Kamaka HF-1. I have no experience dating ukuleles or even really playing them. But I am in the market for one and for the price I could not pass this one up being only two hours away from me.

I am trying to determine it's authenticity. I cannot determine if it is mahogany or Koa but looks more like mahogany to my eye. The logo and label inside look to be accurate to authentic examples. The tuners look to be later 70s. As opposed to the larger friction tuners I've seen from the late 60s and early 70s.

Asking price on this piece is $400 and I will be negotiating to get it lower. Only issues with it I can see is a string is busted and has been tied together by the owner with yarn. They let me know it was their late uncle's and they inherited it but do not play, or know anyone that does.

Any insight to authenticity and dating and wood type would be helpful. All I know is it's a Kamaka soprano size ukulele and they tend to be great instruments. Especially when you can find them at this price point.
 

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Looks very nice, not sure how you get the idea it could be mahogany as I think the mahogany keiki models would say made in Japan. I think these are older tuners so if there is no date stamp could be from between 75 and 78.


These kinds of tuners were used from late 70s into the 2010s I think

 
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Looks very nice, not sure how you get the idea it could be mahogany as I think the mahogany keiki models would say made in Japan. I think these are older tuners so could be late 60s.
I read that they switched to paper labels in 69 so maybe a 69 or 70?

Wasn't sure if Kamaka made mahogany instruments back then or not. I assumed they made Koa and mahogany but maybe they were all Koa?

Would be cool to own a genuine Koa instrument.
 
There is some discussion on "white label Kamakas" here:
 
Your Kamaka was very likely built in the same general era as my HF-1D. Chris Kamaka dated mine as somewhere between 1969 and the early 70s. Notice the older style (and smaller) friction tuners, smaller neck heel, thinner saddle, and the thinner and narrower headstock.
 

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The OP's pictures look like koa to me. I have a few boards that dark.
 
Thanks for the help. Assuming it is in good condition and will not need any major work, like a crack repair, I am hoping $300 is a good price.
 
Go for it! Even at $400 it’s a good price.
Awesome! Will report back here once I receive it. Maybe again after I get it set up by a local Luthier. I've only owned one beginner level Kala before this so I'm excited to try a more high quality, solid wood instrument from the motherland in a local wood. Thanks for the help!
 
Awesome! Will report back here once I receive it. Maybe again after I get it set up by a local Luthier. I've only owned one beginner level Kala before this so I'm excited to try a more high quality, solid wood instrument from the motherland in a local wood. Thanks for the help!
I doubt it would even need a setup at all. Action on these white label sopranos is pretty good already. Plus, the saddle is likely glued in, further making pulling it out with pliers necessary. Just put on a new set of strings and you’ll be good to go! (Don’t use hard tension strings on these vintage Kamaka’s btw, they can’t handle the added tension)
 
I doubt it would even need a setup at all. Action on these white label sopranos is pretty good already. Plus, the saddle is likely glued in, further making pulling it out with pliers necessary. Just put on a new set of strings and you’ll be good to go! (Don’t use hard tension strings on these vintage Kamaka’s btw, they can’t handle the added tension)
Thanks for the string tip. I forget that ukuleles are braces lightly and have quite fragile tops. While I have you here, how about a 1930s example? I actually just ran into a 1930s Kamaka in my area just now and I'm thinking about paying the extra money just to avoid a two hour drive. I've confirmed there are no cracks and it appears to have Koa tuners and maybe a wood nut. But not sure what else could need fixing.
 

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Thanks for the string tip. I forget that ukuleles are braces lightly and have quite fragile tops. While I have you here, how about a 1930s example? I actually just ran into a 1930s Kamaka in my area just now and I'm thinking about paying the extra money just to avoid a two hour drive. I've confirmed there are no cracks and it appears to have Koa tuners and maybe a wood nut. But not sure what else could need fixing.
That’s a nice vintage model! I would snatch it up if the price is right
 
Go for it! Even at $400 it’s a good price.
If it is in very good condition. If it hasn't been well cared for, there may be cracks etc that are expensive to fix.
 
If it is in very good condition. If it hasn't been well cared for, there may be cracks etc that are expensive to fix.
My understanding of the first one I posted is it belonged to the uncle of the current owner who passed away and was an avid player/hobbiest. So seems like that example was taken care of. As for the 1930s example, I have no Intel on it yet. Besides the fact that it has no visible cracks on the outside. Tuners look to have rust on them but that would be the least of my worries on something nearly 100 years old.
 
My understanding of the first one I posted is it belonged to the uncle of the current owner who passed away and was an avid player/hobbiest. So seems like that example was taken care of. As for the 1930s example, I have no Intel on it yet. Besides the fact that it has no visible cracks on the outside. Tuners look to have rust on them but that would be the least of my worries on something nearly 100 years old.
The person got back to me on the 1930s example. It sold a while back and the listing wasn't taken off. For people's reference it sold somewhere between $300 and $500 as that was his asking range. Quite a deal in such an early example.
 
Your Kamaka was very likely built in the same general era as my HF-1D. Chris Kamaka dated mine as somewhere between 1969 and the early 70s. Notice the older style (and smaller) friction tuners, smaller neck heel, thinner saddle, and the thinner and narrower headstock.
Man, the koa on that Kamaka!!! Wow.
 
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