New Soprano Sounds Too Bright and Snappy

humblej

Active member
Joined
Feb 14, 2022
Messages
39
Reaction score
28
I dont know if "bright and snappy" is a common term, but my new ukulele build, my first soprano, made of some kind of mahogany that was recycled from a shelf, with Martin Clear Fluorocarbon .0191-.0216 strings, is too bright and snappy or tinny sounding. Not the mellow sound of my vintage old Hawaiian koa ukulele. If it was a banjo I would say the head is too tight. Is there a better choice of strings that will mellow it out?
 

Attachments

  • sop1.jpg
    sop1.jpg
    60.8 KB · Views: 103
  • sop2.jpg
    sop2.jpg
    44.5 KB · Views: 107
  • sop3.jpg
    sop3.jpg
    48.9 KB · Views: 107
I suspect the top is not thin enough or too much bracing or bridge plate too thick.
 
I suspect the top is not thin enough or too much bracing or bridge plate too thick.
Agreed. It’s a common mistake with new builders to over build. Especially if it’s a soprano. They are unforgiven because you have so little soundboard to worth with.
 
I suspect the top is not thin enough or too much bracing or bridge plate too thick.
.065 for the soundboard, sides, back and bridge plate prior to sanding and finishing.
 
That's a nice looking ukulele but is the photograph of the front a good representation? The bridge appears to be glued on a slant and the fret positions look - erm - very approximate. I'm wary of drawing conclusions just based on photos. I've taken photos of my own builds which made them look a bit wonky. Photographic distortion can be very misleading.
 
That's a nice looking ukulele but is the photograph of the front a good representation? The bridge appears to be glued on a slant and the fret positions look - erm - very approximate. I'm wary of drawing conclusions just based on photos. I've taken photos of my own builds which made them look a bit wonky. Photographic distortion can be very misleading.
The bridge does look off. I will chalk this one up to experience and recycle the tuners and move on to another soprano build. I have some quilted maple I have been wanting to use, and I'm not ready to cut into my stash of Hawaiian koa yet.
 
That is such a fun looking ‘ukulele! i love the look. keep on building and learning and celebrate this one for providing you experiences for the next ones! maybe if you recycle the tuners you could throw some affordable friction tuners on this one to add to the classic vibe!
 
That is such a fun looking ‘ukulele! i love the look. keep on building and learning and celebrate this one for providing you experiences for the next ones! maybe if you recycle the tuners you could throw some affordable friction tuners on this one to add to the classic vibe!
I hate friction tuners.
 
Humblej keep in mind that most peoples first one ends up being a wall hanger. At least you have a good attitude about it. Also on the next one if you think the bracing and top are thin enough go thinner. What Tim and Chuck mentioned is pretty much the standard for the first one. Oh and try and stay with what's tried and true. Go with some sort of Spruce for bracing for the top. You want light and stiff.
 
It took me about 10 tries before I got a good sounding soprano. Light and stiff is the name of the game. As stated, cherry is too heavy for braces, try spruce or cedar. .065 is a good starting point, but you can't only go by numbers. I've gone down to around .050, with narrow/tall engleman braces. You just have to build a few to learn how the proper flex and weight feels. Keep going! Good luck!
 
Most sopranos have no fan braces. Numbers are only a guide as the stiffness of wood varies greatly with the species. I use a deflection gauge to measure all my tops with. But that too is only a starting point. Just to get you in the ballpark, on your next build grab the lower bout with both hands and push down with your thumbs in The bridge area. It should yield somewhat and give you some deflection. How much is a matter of experience based on past builds. Cherry is the wrong wood for any bracing and I’m thinking a top thickness closer to what Hopi said above will get you where you want to be.
 
Early on in my repair journey I did glue a bridge in slightly slanted. It had perfect intonation on that soprano except the High G string.
I didn't do that again inspite of the outcome.
 
Most sopranos have no fan braces. Numbers are only a guide as the stiffness of wood varies greatly with the species. I use a deflection gauge to measure all my tops with. But that too is only a starting point. Just to get you in the ballpark, on your next build grab the lower bout with both hands and push down with your thumbs in The bridge area. It should yield somewhat and give you some deflection. How much is a matter of experience based on past builds. Cherry is the wrong wood for any bracing and I’m thinking a top thickness closer to what Hopi said above will get you where you want to be.
Pardon the silly question, Chuck, but (for a soprano only) does it make any sense to brace with an ultra-lightweight wood such as balsa? My son is considering taking down a 28-inch-caliper Pawlonia (princess tree) that sits on his property line and I'd sure like to get some milled for a uke body, neck and finger board if not the soundboard.
 
Pardon the silly question, Chuck, but (for a soprano only) does it make any sense to brace with an ultra-lightweight wood such as balsa? My son is considering taking down a 28-inch-caliper Pawlonia (princess tree) that sits on his property line and I'd sure like to get some milled for a uke body, neck and finger board if not the soundboard.
Balsa only meetes One of th/e requirements for bracewood (or tonewood in general). It is ligh/t but not stiff at all. If any/thing I’m thinking it would dampene the sound. Look at the sopranos of old, the Martins and Kamamas. They had no fan braces.
 
Is there a better choice of strings that will mellow it out [a bright sounding uke]?
Yes, just about any nylon string set will have a mellower tone in comparison with fluorocarbons.
 
Top Bottom