I took a scientific approach to why I sucked

[rob_dixon]

Haha, sorry for the silly click bait title but there is some truth to it! And maybe this will help others.

So a while back I inquired about possible reasons I sounded better on my much, much cheaper uke ($400 difference). Got good tips, proceeded forwarded. But this observation has continued to be an "issue" and I knew it was time to move on. It was sort of disappointing outcome - I expected a better quality uke to play easier but at least at my current level it was not the case, and I progress faster when I gain confidence so the fancy ones stays in the bag now.

I took a few measurements using a precision calipers, and that confirmed what I already knew - apparently my current skill level does not do well with a wider neck and much higher and looser strings. Even the strings themselves had different widths (e.g. .6mm versus .4mm). These "micro" measurements taken together make the world of difference. That is the takeaway I got, and my point of posting this is that learning is challenging enough, but to add more difficult equipment into the mix can certainly give us all a much bigger challenge. So its probably stated a lot in here, but get out there and try a few ukuleles after you have a few months under your belt.

You might be pleasantly surprised and find you are better than you think you are!

 

[rainbow21]

Often, the first advice is to have a proper setup. The lack, thereof, often means the action, or string height is too high. This now requires the player to apply more force and can discourage some from continuing. Even expensive ukuleles can have a high action (often deliberate, because they do not want someone to purchase it and need to raise the action due to the difficulty).

The spacing can be important to some. I, like you, do not like wider necks and greater string spacing. I do like radiused fretboards.

String thickness affects the sound and tension. Thicker means tighter if the same material (cannot really compare a nylon against a fluorocarbon straight up). I like looser strings because its easier to fret. Beware of not mixing up your preferences if the looser strings are combined with the higher action. Once you lower the action, then you will have a more "scientific" comparison.

My rule of thumb is: buy a really expensive ukulele and have someone (first choice for me is The Ukulele Site) good do the setup.

 

[Ukecaster]

Follow the science! I like measuring my ukes' specs and seeing how each feels to me. Ends up I like wider nuts and string spacing. Very subjective and personal. BTW, what uke's nut did you find too wide for you?

 

[Luke Plays Uke]

It takes me a long time to adjust to a wider neck and it has to be deliberate. I can’t bounce between a wide neck and a more narrow neck very easily so I have to say “I want that uke’s tone,” and then I dedicate time to getting used to that uke again.

Once I get used to it, it’s fine but going back to a more narrow neck doesn’t take as long as going to the wider one.

 

[rob_dixon]

Follow the science! I like measuring my ukes' specs and seeing how each feels to me. Ends up I like wider nuts and string spacing. Very subjective and personal. BTW, what uke's nut did you find too wide for you?

I have a bamboo Kala and a Kanile'a Oha Series.
Kala neck is "35" although i measures 34.3mm and the kanilea is a "38" although i measured 37.8

The nut height however: The kala is .9 and the Kanilea is 1.4mm. This increases as we go down the neck, so if I take the bottom of the 5th fret for example, the Kala strings are 1.8mm off the neck, and the Kanilea is 2.5mm. Add the "looseness" of the Kanilea strings, and my fingers just cant find the chord placement fast enough.

 

[rob_dixon]

Often, the first advice is to have a proper setup. The lack, thereof, often means the action, or string height is too high. This now requires the player to apply more force and can discourage some from continuing. Even expensive ukuleles can have a high action (often deliberate, because they do not want someone to purchase it and need to raise the action due to the difficulty).

This is exactly my issue, string height is too high on the Kanilea - see post above on the spacings. But the nut is solidly glued to the neck, so do they literally just break it off and file it down? If so that must be a very tricky and delicate process. How much is such a service?

To break off the nut to me seems...welll.... nuts, haha. No pun intended.)

 

[Wiggy]

Each string has its own nut slot. To get an idea of the "action" at the 1st fret (most important to me) do this:

Lay the ukulele on a table. For each string, press and hold between the 2nd and 3rd fret. Then tap on the string over the 1st fret while looking at the gap. You will see how far the string has to go to 'just touch' the 1st fret. The gap there will give you a feel for the action at the nut.

If the gap is large*, the string will be harder to press. If the gap is small, it will be easier to press.

* .025" (the thickness of a credit card), or larger.

The gap may be quite tiny (.004" - the thickness of printer paper) but there must be at least some gap; otherwise, it will buzz.

 

[rainbow21]

This is exactly my issue, string height is too high on the Kanilea - see post above on the spacings. But the nut is solidly glued to the neck, so do they literally just break it off and file it down? If so that must be a very tricky and delicate process. How much is such a service?

To break off the nut to me seems...welll.... nuts, haha. No pun intended.)

The nut is not removed. Rather the slots are widened or deepened to lower the strings. There are slot files for filing the nuts or you can fold a piece of sandpaper and go slowly. If you go too deep (so go slow), there is a baking soda and CA (superglue?) filler you can concoct. Others here can elaborate more on this.

 

[clear]

The nut is not removed. Rather the slots are widened or deepened to lower the strings. There are slot files for filing the nuts or you can fold a piece of sandpaper and go slowly. If you go too deep (so go slow), there is a baking soda and CA (superglue?) filler you can concoct. Others here can elaborate more on this.

I thought, to lower the strings at the nut, you'd remove the nut to file its bottom.
No?

 

[Wiggy]

Look at it this way, each string has its own "nut." Those being the nut slots. Read again what Rainbow21 wrote.

Hint: If you do choose to file the nut slots, do it in very small amounts at a time while checking with the procedure in reply #7.

Avoid creating a "too deep" slot. You'll be working in a few thousanths (.001") as you get close to where you want it.

 

[captain-janeway]

I thought, to lower the strings at the nut, you'd remove the nut to file its bottom.
No?

The slots are filed. If you've never done it before I'd have it done

 

[rob_dixon]

Thanks guys, so I did the measurement from the 12th fret and read it should be 2.5 - 3mm. I saw one site say some get it down to as low as 1.5mm. Well mine is 3.9! (I get a lot of buzz with this high action for whatever reason).

Looks like I need to find a shop to lower this for me!