Exploring the Home Recording Rabbit Hole

Please elaborate on how to use (non-Apple, please) a "smart" phone (Samsung, for example) where the SIM (or whatever it is called these days) is not registered or connected to any service (Verizon, Sprint, AT&T...) with just the phone and charger. How to get files off the phone's memory MicroSD?
I had a Motorola Android that I had specifically picked because it had a removable SD card for media storage. Pop the back off, dig the card out. (Note, I don't mean the phone's SIM card, but a separate micro SD card just for video, audio and still storage) My iMac has a full-size SD card reader slot built-in; you pop it into an adaptor sleeve that makes it fit like a large size card, and it's recognized as an external drive, then you pull the files you want or import them into garage band or Final Cut or iMovie as you like.

I have a couple of chromebooks with removable keyboards so it can become a tablet if needed: these already have very tiny micro sd card slots built into their edge, so that's another way to transfer the files if bluetooth or wifi is disabled on an unregistered phone.

So if your android has remove-able SD card media, all you need then is a little adapter for the micro SD card, these are available at the drugstore or via Amazon for a buck or two. If you're on a PC without a SD card reader, those are like ten bucks at Best Buy or an office supply store or online.


If your Android or other brand smartphone has no remove-able media card, you're going to use a USB data (not just charging) cable to interface with your computer and may have to poke around a little to see how to get the files to transfer out. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out but I can't give specifics because every phone model is a little different. But the overall principle is the same as if it was just a digital camera or camcorder.
 

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I had an Android that I had specifically picked because it had a removable SD card for media storage. Pop the back off, dig the card out. (Note, I don't mean the phone's SIM card, but a separate micro SD card just for video, audio and still storage) My iMac has a full-size SD card reader slot built-in; you pop it into an adaptor sleeve that makes it a a large size card, and it's recognized as an external drive, then you pull the files you want or import them into garage band or Final Cut or iMovie as you like.

So if your android has remove-able SD card media, all you need then is a little adapter for the micro SD card, these are available at the drugstore or via Amazon for a buck or two. If you're on a PC without a SD card reader, those are like ten bucks at Best Buy or an office supply store or online.


If your Android has no remove-able media card, you're going to use a USB cable to interface with your computer and may have to poke around a little to see how to get the files to transfer out. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out but I can't give specifics because every phone model is a little different. But the overall principle is the same as if it was just a digital camera or camcorder.
PC adaptor if you don'tadaptor 2Screen Shot 2024-03-14 at 12.58.30 AM.png have SD card slots
 
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I completely forgot about the part of the rabbit hole I have not been into:
Studio monitors.

I dont have any. I just listen on a set of decent headphones. But look for advice online, and you will be told that it doesnt make sense to try any post processing in your recordings if you dont listen to it over good studio monitors. And not your scrummy HiFi speakers!
You cant connect studio monitors to your pc or usb mic. You will need an interface for that.
My interface keeps wanting to play through some monitors I dont have. I need to switch it back to headphones every time I turn it on. I usually dont really mix anything, just EQ my track a bit. I dont think I am going to get any monitors.
An USB mic is far more plug and play that way. Only a headphone jack, and it remembers a proper sound level from time to time.
Also my interface needs its own drivers that needed to be installed. Some interfaces might be more plug and play than Audient, but I bought it for the good reviews.
 
I see a lot of used smartphones at the local pawn shop. Why is this of interest? Because even if you never re-activate their ability to make a phone call, they are still tiny movie cameras and audio recorders you can slip into a shirt pocket, for cheap.
I've got a 9 year old iphone SE 1st gen - terribly small and light - which I'm using to strap onto a scope in exactly this way. An old phone case, some araldite and an old, cut down plastic 35mm film case (remember those) to go over the viewer ... its light enough to work for digiscoping!
Audio - I have a little Olympus stereo recorder which records on integral usb which you then plug into computer. I have to use a freebie programme to get it from odd windows file format to mp3 but quality is great.
 
Been trying cheap mics for enhancing group use... i.e. where a song needs demo-ing.
Boyo Lavalier 'barrel' cheapies seem good from Amazon... but the long leads whilst good for handing to someone across the circle for their 'lead'... are a bit of a hassle to transport/wind up.
I also bought a cheap Shure mic and XLR cable... (£25 all in) all it is much more needing to be in your face for sound amplification... so you either needs means of keeping it up there, or you cant play uke as well! I think they are psychologically more difficult to use unless you are drunk/in a karaoke when its part of the act... unless you are confident with it being more obvious that "its all down to you". Lavs you forget about.
Cheap wifi lavalier now on plane from China to try....
 
@Mark Suszko: Interesting observation about audio quality and video quality. Someone posted a video playing four ukuleles in different quandrants of the video on the Classical Ukulele Thread. I asked him how he managed to record the four tracks and keep the timing together without wearing headphones to hear the other tracks or a metronome. He told me he recorded the audio independently and when he was happy with it, he did the four videos with and synchonized them to the audio. He also said that if you looked closely enough you could see the video didn't exactly match the audio, but that nobody ever notices. It was at that point I decided to spend time on the audio and less on the video as that better suited my purposes.
 
Would a USB microphone be a significant improvement over a lavalier microphone? (noticeably different?)

I have never recorded anything with a lapel mic, so I cant share any experiences.
But it seems obvious that it depends heavily on the quality and placement of the mics as well as what they are connected to.

A high end USB mic, placed on a stand in a proper position, in a room with not too horrid acoustics, seems to come closer to the condenser mic setups usually recommended for home studios than any lapel mic.

But a cheapo USB mic placed a bit too far away, on a table top that reflects bad room acoustics onto the mic, might not sound better than a good lapel mic.

Edit:
My thought is, if you go for a lapel mic - it is because you prioritize not having to worry about mic stands. Then contemplating about the sound quality if you did have stuff that require a stand seems counter productive.
 
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I have never recorded anything with a lapel mic, so I cant share any experiences.
But it seems obvious that it depends heavily on the quality and placement of the mics as well as what they are connected to.

A high end USB mic, placed on a stand in a proper position, in a room with not too horrid acoustics, seems to come closer to the condenser mic setups usually recommended for home studios than any lapel mic.

But a cheapo USB mic placed a bit too far away, on a table top that reflects bad room acoustics onto the mic, might not sound better than a good lapel mic.

Edit:
My thought is, if you go for a lapel mic - it is because you prioritize not having to worry about mic stands. Then contemplating about the sound quality if you did have stuff that require a stand seems counter productive.
I have rigged my music stand for gigging with an adjustable gooseneck mic holder on it, so it needs no additional mic boom in the shot.

I agree mic placement has a huge affect. A pro tip for the little leaguers out there is, for vocals, make the "hang loose" hand gesture and put the thumb to your chin. Where the pinkie ends up is the best beginning mic distance to get good capture while avoiding plosives.

Know what type of mic pickup pattern your mic is: it is omni-directional, accepting sound equally from every direction, is it cardioid or heart-shaped pattern, like a valentine heart vee shape? That means your mouth has to stay within a 45-degree cone of acceptance from the front of the mic, or you fall off dramatically. Is the mic hypercardioid or highly directional, like a shotgun mic? That cone is even narrower and if you stray from it you fall out of the mix. For ukers, the considerations are: do you need the mic to pick up your vocals and the acoustic uke sound equally, or does the uke have a pickup and amplifier for itself? If the uke has no pickup, are you going to mic the uke separately, or try to get your uke and vocal off one mic? In that last case, you want an omni-directional pickup pattern or a regular cardioid pattern set a little further back, so mouth and uke sound hole are both in the 45-degree "cone of acceptance".

I've worked with broadcast quality Lav mics daily, along with "stick" mics of many types for over three decades, and It's for this reason that I say a good quality lavaliere mic in the right spot can work for you in an acoustic uke recording situation. The "right spot" in this case would be just a little lower than your clavicle, pointing down towards your shoes, away from your mouth, towards the uke. You want to have it pinned properly to your clothing, (there is an art to this, I can give details if someone cares) and the cable hidden inside the clothing needs to be taped-down, so it can't move around and rustle. Because it's omni-directional, you will have to think about speaker placement and stage noise in a crowd, but at home these are not concerns.

Why point the lav mic downwards? This eliminates it "popping" from plosives like the B or P sound when you speak or sing, it also doesn't pick up your breathing that way. This is a technique long-practiced by the BBC, who are the masters of sound capture since the twenties. Good brands of lav mic include Tascam, Rode, Countryman, Shure, Sennheiser, AKG, Point Source Audio, and at home I use a little Audio-Technica that was less than thirty bucks, so you can get some decent quality for that price if you stick to well-known brands. Lavs come in hard-wired and wireless body pack styles. The wireless ones cost more but many of them now include an on-board recorder in the body pack so if the radio link gets disrupted, you still have a clean recording after the fact. That does cost extra of course. If you just wanted to experiment with one, I say try the hard-wired low-end Audio_Technica first. It will need to be plugged into either a camera or phone, or into a USB converter if you record to laptop.
 
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Been trying cheap mics for enhancing group use... i.e. where a song needs demo-ing.
Boyo Lavalier 'barrel' cheapies seem good from Amazon... but the long leads whilst good for handing to someone across the circle for their 'lead'... are a bit of a hassle to transport/wind up.
I also bought a cheap Shure mic and XLR cable... (£25 all in) all it is much more needing to be in your face for sound amplification... so you either needs means of keeping it up there, or you cant play uke as well! I think they are psychologically more difficult to use unless you are drunk/in a karaoke when its part of the act... unless you are confident with it being more obvious that "its all down to you". Lavs you forget about.
Cheap wifi lavalier now on plane from China to try....
See my other post about type of mic pickup pattern: you might be using a mic with a too-narrow pickup pattern.
 
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I have never recorded anything with a lapel mic, so I cant share any experiences.
But it seems obvious that it depends heavily on the quality and placement of the mics as well as what they are connected to.

A high end USB mic, placed on a stand in a proper position, in a room with not too horrid acoustics, seems to come closer to the condenser mic setups usually recommended for home studios than any lapel mic.

But a cheapo USB mic placed a bit too far away, on a table top that reflects bad room acoustics onto the mic, might not sound better than a good lapel mic.

Edit:
My thought is, if you go for a lapel mic - it is because you prioritize not having to worry about mic stands. Then contemplating about the sound quality if you did have stuff that require a stand seems counter productive.
I'm really not tech savvy so my recordings are as simple as it gets. I have a lapel-type lavalier microphone that I plug into my iPhone. It's a cheapie I got for $2-$3. I place the iPhone on a stand and place the microphone so it's just setting on the edge of the table. The uke would be less than a foot from the mic and my mouth/voice would be a bit further away. I just point the camera and hit record for the video. Then I download the video directly to YouTube from my iPhone so there's no app like Garage Band or anything similar. So like the original poster, I'd be curious about how to improve the sound recordings without getting too involved or complicated.
 
I'm really not tech savvy so my recordings are as simple as it gets. I have a lapel-type lavalier microphone that I plug into my iPhone. It's a cheapie I got for $2-$3. I place the iPhone on a stand and place the microphone so it's just setting on the edge of the table. The uke would be less than a foot from the mic and my mouth/voice would be a bit further away. I just point the camera and hit record for the video. Then I download the video directly to YouTube from my iPhone so there's no app like Garage Band or anything similar. So like the original poster, I'd be curious about how to improve the sound recordings without getting too involved or complicated.
Mike: drop a couple of bucks on an extension cord for the lav mic you have, get one long enough to go from the iphone to your playing position with a little extra slack. A fifteen-footer is twelve bucks on Amazon. Wear the lav on your shirt, about even with the chest pocket, centered, with the capsule pointing downwards. This will get your voice and the uke clearly. With a long enough cable, you can run the cable up inside your shirt or over the shoulder and down inside along the button flap, secure the cable with bits of duct tape or medical bandage tape so it doesn't shift or flop around... give that a try, and report back, please.
 
As my son was helping me sort out DAWs to record with my portable USB mic, he also offered to loan me external mics, an audio inteface, and the cables/stands I would need. I was kind of excited to experiment with external mics, and I had read about using Shure SM57 mics for acoustic instruments. Unfortunately, my son had to leave town before I could get over there.

While I was reading about mics, mic placement, and audio interfaces, I bumped into a video by Alex of Southern Ukulele Store about how he recorded his videos. I noticed he was using a Zoom portable recorder but he had several external mics connected, and he was excited about both the functionality and the sound quality. I was surprised because I associated portable recorders with the old tiny answering machine cassette tapes and voice only memos. Portable recorders are another interesting rabbit hole, I have not explored very thoroughly. I just read some reviews and comparisons of different models, found the H6 on sale and ordered it. I was mostly interested in the portability and audio quality, but I later discovered that it could perform as a USB stereo microphone or multichannel audio interface as well.

The H6 with its matched pair of small diaphram condenser mics in an XY pattern is a significant improvement in audio quality. It is also a pleasure to use. It's self-contained, battery powered, and easy to set up to for recording or playback. It is capable of some fairly sophisticated processing without a computer (overdubbing, mixing/down mixing to several formats, trimming, and some filtering and compression). It is also a nice 6 channel audio interface: 2 channels for the XY mics and four inputs for external XLR mics (including phantom power to those mics that need it) or electric instruments. That XY mic module is replaceable and a number of different mic types are available. There is also a module that supplies two additional XLR inputs. The H6 records onto memory cards and I move files to a computer either by popping out the memory card or connecting the H6 via USB and mounting it like an external drive. My only complaint is that the recorded files are named based on the channel inputs, so if you want to overdub a track recorded with the built in mics, you either have to use external mics, or manipulate the file names to use the built in mics to overdub. As I have no XLR mics handy, I have perfected the file name trick.

I do most of my recording directly to the H6 and most of my post processing using Reaper on my computer. However, the H6 works nicely as an audio interface to my computer and I can use it with Reaper to record as well. I am very happy with the H6 portability, flexibility, and audio quality. Right now portability is different spots in the bedroom and living room, but it is much easier moving around and I am very pleased with the quality of the recordings. I am looking forward to borrowing some different mics from my son when he gets back next week, and I have been looking at different mic placements and recording methods on the Acoustic Guitar Forum's RECORD section. But I have to say, the XY mics on the H6 do a fine job so I am not in a great hurry to complicate the system. The H6 has both headphone and line ouput that people use as a direct audio input to video cameras, but I have not played with that. I am doing close recording to minimize room effects, but people use it as a room mic and for recording larger groups as well. I have not experimented with that either.

The experience I gained with the little Samson USB mic helped understand mic levels and placement, and I was able to get what I wanted from the H6 much more quickly. The dual mic setup is not only better sounding, but it is more forgiving in terms of placement, and the H6 makes it much easier to fine tune recording levels. Currently my favorite placement is keeping the H6 at about chin height about a foot away and angled slightly down to point at the ukulele where the neck joins the body. This ends up have one mic pointed up the fretboard and the other pointed down the soundboard. I usually adjust it so that the soundboard pointing mic is pointed more toward the lower bout than the sound hole. Below is a picture of the recorder with the XY mics.
ZoomH6252580_.jpg
 
This afternnon I tried a different setup with the H6. I set it level at about 35" high, which is mid chest when I'm seated. It was next to and slightly further from me than the music stand--perhaps the distance to the mics was 2.5 to 3 feet. I just roughly aimed it toward me and recorded a 25 minute practice session.

Listening to the recording on the H6 with a pair of decent headphones I thought the sound was very natural. I was getting more of the room without any dire consequences. I did pick up more room noise and a bit of traffic noise, but it was really only very noticeable when I wasn't playing. I haven't done any filtering, and I expect a low shelf filter would help with some of the background noise, but I was pleased with the recording quality. That sort of setup would not get in the way of any video, and would work well I think for recording the two of playing sitting side by side as we usually do. That is going to be tonight's experiment. I was also pleased that I could quickly set up a little further away and get decent results. I will report back after I import the files to Reaper and compare them to my other recordings.
 
I spent a couple hours playing on Reaper this afternoon comparing my closely mic'd recordings with the more distant recording of my practice session yesterday. I started by EQing and adding a little with compression to the more distant micing. The compression was a relatively minimal effect, and I am not sure I heard much difference. However, the EQ was a big improvement removing almost all of the background noise, primarily a low hum and some street noise. I used a narrow band filter to search the spectrum for the mid-bass hum and then used a notched filter plus a high pass filter which seemed to have little effect on the ukulele, but significantly suppressed the noise. I also rolled off the high end of the spectrum a bit. Although the noise was worse on the more distantly recorded practice session than the closely mic'd session, the same EQ improved both recordings.

The close recording was drier with a bit more detail, and the distant recording had more room reflections that sounded something like adding a little reverb to the close recording. The sound of the ukulele was quite similar in both recordings, and either would serve my purposes well. I slightly prefer the detail of the close recording for analytical purposes, but the more distant recording might have been a bit more natural, though more prone to environmental noise. Perhaps I just got lucky, but my impression that the distant XY mic is less sensitive to small variations in the placement, in which case it is easier to set up. As I said, I also assume it will be better for recording the two of us as well.

My brother suggested playing some music through speakers in the rooms where I record and walking around listening on my headphones through the H6 to find spots in the room that sound better or worse and then choose where I set up to record.
 
ailevin, I would like to hear more about the post processing you do in Reaper.
Perhaps in a separate thread in the audio video forum, perhaps here?

Do you also sing, or ukulele only?
Most of my recordings are with the mic about 2 feet away, so I can balance vocal and ukulele better. Either Blue Yeti in XY stereo mode or an XLR condenser in cardiod mode.

Which VSTs are you using? I have only used the stock reaEQ in Reaper, mostly with some presets. How is this mid bass hum thing you write about? I saw a video about EQing acoustic guitar once, perhaps it is the same. Do you need to find the frequency over for each recording? When I have used Reaper for SOTU, and time has been an issue, I like to have a template with the tracks for audio and video ready with the usual effect on 😆

When you add compression, which VST and settings have you tried and found good?
And what to do about gain staging and compression? If you record with peak at -12 db and want -1.0 db in final export, do you add gain before or after some given compression settings? I am guessing that the compression will do more if the levels are higher.
 
ailevin, I would like to hear more about the post processing you do in Reaper.
Perhaps in a separate thread in the audio video forum, perhaps here?
I have to stress that I am Reaper and a home audio novice. I intended this thread primarily to give someone starting out the benefit of watching me fumble around in the hope it helps them avoid a few of my mistakes.
Do you also sing, or ukulele only?
Most of my recordings are with the mic about 2 feet away, so I can balance vocal and ukulele better. Either Blue Yeti in XY stereo mode or an XLR condenser in cardiod mode.
I don't sing much yet, but I have done a very little bit of voice coaching with my teacher. I figure I may as well take advantage of the fact that she is a professional singer and song writer. My wife does sing though she is somewhat shy about it and I don't know how she will feel about singing into a mic. Right now my approach will be a 3 foot distant XY to record voice and ukuleles with some room acoustics.
Which VSTs are you using? I have only used the stock reaEQ in Reaper, mostly with some presets. How is this mid bass hum thing you write about? I saw a video about EQing acoustic guitar once, perhaps it is the same. Do you need to find the frequency over for each recording? When I have used Reaper for SOTU, and time has been an issue, I like to have a template with the tracks for audio and video ready with the usual effect on 😆
I have licenses for VSTs from Arturia Audio Lab Lite including a really nice grand piano and many effects. Audio Lab lite came with my microlab portable MIDI keyboard. So far, I have not used those with Reaper. I have only used the stock effects that come with the basic installation. Based on my son's comments when he was helping me, and looking at the reaEQ presets, I gather that picking up a hum around 120 Hz is not an uncommon problem. The two tracks I was EQing were recorded in the same room with me in the same position but with different mic positions. After developing the EQ on the more distant mic'd track, I applied it to the close mic'd track and it worked fine, so I made no adjustments. I expect that I would use the same EQ anywhere I recorded in that room, and it would be my starting point for any other EQ at home.

In reaEQ, the stock - Close Mic Acoustic preset is very similar to what I ended up with at the low end and it knocks down the hum, but I didn't discover it until I had built my own EQ. In fact, many of the presets have a similar sort of low end roll off in the same spot. You could use a high pass filter or a low shelf filter--I used a 2 octave high pass with a gain of -6dB at around 125 Hz. I also added a .55 octave band filter with a gain of -9 dB at 112 Hz. I came up with these using a loop with silence (background noise only) and then a couple ukulele chords so I could see which peaks were noise and which were low end of the ukulele. I played around with the two low filters until I had reduced the noise without impacting the uke spectrum very much. I was trying to learn how to use the effects and was probably optimizing more than necessary. The narrower .55 octave filter helped me focus on reducing the hum further without impacting the ukulele low end. I added a .8 octave -9 dB high shelf filter at 9K (that frequency probably could have been brought down lower without hurting the ukulele sound). As a final tweak, I added a 2 octave +2dB band filter at around 900K. To be honest, most of this was just playing around, and the only real problem I heard before EQ was that mid bass hum and a little street noise. I saw my son do the high frequency roll off, so I did likewise.

I've been told that the main thing with EQ is to listen at low to normal volume levels and to make sure you have the same overall volume with and without the EQ. That is very much an ear thing, not a VU meter thing, because with EQ you are moving energy around in the spectrum. My son emphasized subtractive EQ, EQing to remove problems, and getting the volume right before and after EQ. He also said that unless you knew what you were doing (in general I don't), the right order was EQ then compress then reverb. And once again get the volume in and volume out matched at each step. It may be a somewhat different story with mixing or EQing specifically for other effects, but this was the single track EQ advice I was trying to follow.
When you add compression, which VST and settings have you tried and found good?
And what to do about gain staging and compression? If you record with peak at -12 db and want -1.0 db in final export, do you add gain before or after some given compression settings? I am guessing that the compression will do more if the levels are higher.
I used the reaComp stock - Acoustic Guitar setting and lowered the threshold a couple dB until I began to see a little effect. Of all the parameters, I was told the threshold and ratio were the most important for my purposes. The threshold determines the input level at which the compressor kicks in. The ratio determines how compressed the volume gets when it goes over the threshold. I believe that if the ratio is set to infinite, then it is a limiter. The other parameters determine how the compressor responds, what it responds to, and how the compressed output is filtered. I didn't change any settings except threshold. My record levels were not terribly hot and I ended up with the compressor threshold at maybe -25 dB. If you record too hot such that you distort, it is already too late for the compressor. My understanding is that you adjust the master track output volume after the compressor (or limiter) whether you have that effect on individual tracks or on the master or both. I don't know about export, I adjust the master volume so it is in the right range for my powered speakers or headphone ouput.
 
I used the reaComp stock - Acoustic Guitar setting and lowered the threshold a couple dB until I began to see a little effect. Of all the parameters, I was told the threshold and ratio were the most important for my purposes. The threshold determines the input level at which the compressor kicks in. The ratio determines how compressed the volume gets when it goes over the threshold. I believe that if the ratio is set to infinite, then it is a limiter. The other parameters determine how the compressor responds, what it responds to, and how the compressed output is filtered. I didn't change any settings except threshold. My record levels were not terribly hot and I ended up with the compressor threshold at maybe -25 dB. If you record too hot such that you distort, it is already too late for the compressor. My understanding is that you adjust the master track output volume after the compressor (or limiter) whether you have that effect on individual tracks or on the master or both. I don't know about export, I adjust the master volume so it is in the right range for my powered speakers or headphone ouput.

My fx chain in my template is:
Record audio aimong for -12 db peak. Plenty of headroom before clipping, if I dont hit -12 db spot on.
Apply EQ on track. I ended up with a preset for a wide male vocal, which I liked better than close mix acoustic. But I also sing on the same track.
Turn up volume of track untill it peaks at about -1.

On the master i apply mild compression, a master limiter and a lufsmeter. First listen without compression and limiter on, checking peaks and LUFS until I have an idea about what I am working with. Then turn it on if it seems right.

For compression I use a preset called something with master bus, applies a factor 1,5 with a -18db threshold. So not too crazy.
Then a limiter to limit everything to -1 db, which is YouTubes maximum allowed peak.

Unless using a limiter at a lower level, I dont think it makes sense to raise the volume after a limiter. Then I would get clipping. My limiter is my guard against clipping, nothing happens after that.
What I am curious about, is at what levels the compression is supposed to be applied. If threshold is at -18 and peaks at -12, there is only something to compress between these values. If I raise the volume so more of the sound comes over the threshold, there should be more effect from the compression I would assume.
 
You guys fighting hum; this usually comes from a bad AC ground somewhere in your signal chain, or a bad device like an old fourescent light ballast on the same circuit of the house breaker. If you put the amp or USB converter on battery power it might kill that right away. Or, see if powering the key gear off an extension cord from another circuit of the house, fed by a different circuit breaker, fixes it. Yes, you can teach your DAW to recognize 60-cycle hum and eliminate it. In Final Cut, that's a switch you can flip. But better is to kill the problem before it gets into the recording or into post. There are hum killing boxes; the good ones are not cheap, the cheap ones are not good.
 
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This one was recorded with just an iPhone in my pocket, then sweetened and finished in Garage Band. Make sure the pocket doesn't have anything that can rub against the phone
 
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