Video : Aloha City Ukes Set-Up Process - Ukulele Set Up

I've purchased two ukes from Aloha City Ukes and they are both amazing to play with what I'd call a perfect setup.

Super courteous and helpful, definitely a gem amongst ukulele purveyors!
 
I've purchased two ukes from Aloha City Ukes and they are both amazing to play with what I'd call a perfect setup.

Super courteous and helpful, definitely a gem amongst ukulele purveyors!
I echo that....every uke I've purchased from Matt has been set up great. Lovely to deal with.
 
I would check the nut height before the action and saddle.
 
I would check the nut height before the action and saddle.
Yeah, that surprised me in the video that he went straight to sanding the saddle. Also he noted that only KoAloha sets a good saddle height from the factory. So I guess experience says to do the saddle and then check the nut if needed.

Also liked the timeline he described on how it could easily be over a year from manufacture for when he actually might set up an ukulele.
 
Great video, I just wish he would have have thrown out some wisdom about sanding down the saddle "a little". He's done so many, it's probably 2nd nature but when I go through the process it takes me several cycles of checking the action at the 12th/loosening the strings/removing the saddle/sanding "a little"/reinstalling saddle/tightening the G string/checking the action, then repeat because I'm afraid I'll sand it more than "the little" I should have, which on a bely sander is easy to do.

I would like to know if the action is ## at the 12th, sand down the saddle # for the correct adjustment. At least get me close on the 1st pass! I also never knew about WD30 for rough tuners. Easy on open tuners, not so much for closed. But a great tip none the less. TUS also has a nice setup video I learned from. Setup is SO IMPORTANT!
 
I bought a Flight baritone from Aloha City ukes and the strings had obvious wear (visible corrosion on metal wound bass) and wouldn't hold pitch. I had to change them immediately.
 
Great video, I just wish he would have have thrown out some wisdom about sanding down the saddle "a little". He's done so many, it's probably 2nd nature but when I go through the process it takes me several cycles of checking the action at the 12th/loosening the strings/removing the saddle/sanding "a little"/reinstalling saddle/tightening the G string/checking the action, then repeat because I'm afraid I'll sand it more than "the little" I should have, which on a bely sander is easy to do.

I would like to know if the action is ## at the 12th, sand down the saddle # for the correct adjustment. At least get me close on the 1st pass! I also never knew about WD30 for rough tuners. Easy on open tuners, not so much for closed. But a great tip none the less. TUS also has a nice setup video I learned from. Setup is SO IMPORTANT!
As I was typing in my comments above I got to thinking that as smart as Google is, surely there is information about the mathematics of sanding down the saddle based on the 12th fret measurement and sure enough our buddy Barry Maz has a great write-up and video

Bottom line whatever the measurement you want to lower the string at the 12th fret means you need to remove double that measurement from the bottom of the saddle.

Another trick I learned is that if you don't have a string height gauge, playing cards will work. At the nut, 2-3 stacked playing cards will be about .5mm (if 2 cards are loose, add 3rd and it should be snug enough so cards won't fall out but still easy to move cards under the strings)
AT the 12th fret it's 7 cards. NOTE - I have not confirmed this measurement with cards and my gauge, but it's on the internet so it has to be fact!
 
belt sander... wow!

I don't believe lube helps much on grindy tuners... after messing with some for a long time, I found it's usually misalignment of the arms that hold the shaft with the worm gear. the shaft is under tension and it doesn't take much to be off.

the card tricks work great if the cards (gift, credit, playing, whatever) are consistent in thickness... hence, I believe every DIYer needs some cheap calipers (<$10, can also be used to measure how much to take off a saddle, whether it's even on each side, etc.). or just buy a string action gauge (also <$10).
 
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