Wooden bridge pin keeps popping out

[timeconsumer]

I have a nice hand built tenor with wooden bridge pins. I changed strings last week and now one of the bridge pins keeps popping out about a full step or so away from its correct pitch.

I’ve tried multiple string brands with the same result. I suspect that the pin has just been worn shiny after changing the strings a bunch of times. As a last resort I’ll reach out to the luthier, but I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the pin.

Is there anything I can do to increase the friction a bit, like chalk powder or similar?

 

[badhabits]

...

Is there anything I can do to increase the friction a bit, like chalk powder or similar?

A light rub with sandpaper?

 

[timeconsumer]

A light rub with sandpaper?

I’m hesitant to do anything intrusive, especially if it happens again and I need to redo it.

 

[merlin666]

Did you use the pins as they were in holes with original set up? This often happens if you take off all strings at once and then mix up the pins and holes. With pin bridges ususally good idea to change one string at a time to make sure pins get back in their holes.

 

[TerryM]

Is it possible the knot is under the end of the pin rather than beside it? I had that issue with a string until I made sure to pull it until the knot lay against the side of the pin. As it's tightened the knot puts more pressure on the side of the pin and keeps it in place.

 

[Spicysteve]

Is it possible the knot is under the end of the pin rather than beside it? I had that issue with a string until I made sure to pull it until the knot lay against the side of the pin. As it's tightened the knot puts more pressure on the side of the pin and keeps it in place.

+1. And I use a small bead also. Always directs the knot and bead to the front of the pin.

 

[anthonyg]

Bridge pin bridges are designed to work with ball end strings. The design works well when you insert the strings ball end into the hole, and then the pin with the slot of the pin against the string. The pin displaces the ball end sideways under the bridge which secures it, and then it places SIDEWAYS pressure on the pin, which is capture in the hole, so no problems.

Strings without a ball end, ARE a problem.
If you tie a big enough knot in the string it somehow works, yet the best solution is to buy some small beads to fit on the end of your plain strings. Then the system works a treat.

 

[merlin666]

Bridge pin bridges are designed to work with ball end strings. The design works well when you insert the strings ball end into the hole, and then the pin with the slot of the pin against the string. The pin displaces the ball end sideways under the bridge which secures it, and then it places SIDEWAYS pressure on the pin, which is capture in the hole, so no problems.

Strings without a ball end, ARE a problem.
If you tie a big enough knot in the string it somehow works, yet the best solution is to buy some small beads to fit on the end of your plain strings. Then the system works a treat.

I think that pins with slots are uncommon. Nowadays the slot is supposed to be cut into the bridge, top, and bridge plate to seat the string. If you have old pins with slots then please turn the slot in the direction facing away from the string.

 

[anthonyg]

I think that pins with slots are uncommon. Nowadays the slot is supposed to be cut into the bridge, top, and bridge plate to seat the string. If you have old pins with slots then please turn the slot in the direction facing away from the string.

The whole practice of using bridge pin bridges on ukulele's is totally confusing, because bridge pin bridges were NEVER designed to be used with plain strings.
How on earth they work with plain strings is beyond me, yet somehow it works. Sometimes.

On steel string guitars, the design is brilliant and works as I described above. The pin needs to be the same size as the hole, and as such, there needs to be a slot in the pin to let the string through. We are not squeezing the string between the pin and the side of the hole.

Kanilea’s design is completely different, even though it looks the same superficially, which just adds to the confusion. The Kanilea bridge has a slot in front of the hole, and uses a solid pin. As such, the Kanilea’s design is an under top slotted bridge. You tie a knot in the string and secure it under the top as you would secure a knotted string in a regular slotted bridge.
Once in place the pins can be removed as they aren't doing anything except being decoration. It's a GREAT design and it works well. It's just not a bridge pin bridge.
The pins are there for decoration. I guess they help with initially fitting the knotted strings in place under the top.
Don't confuse the two designs with each other.

 

[Poul Hansen]

The pin is only there to fill the hole, so the knotted string can't get out. You can use a chopstick if you want. The pins only fit tight in the hole, so they don't drop out when the string is loosened, NOT to keep the string in.
As already mentioned, make sure the knot is on the side of the pin, NOT below it.
There are nice illustrations of the workings of stringpins on the internet.

 

[Joe Strummer]

The whole practice of using bridge pin bridges on ukulele's is totally confusing, because bridge pin bridges were NEVER designed to be used with plain strings.
How on earth they work with plain strings is beyond me, yet somehow it works. Sometimes.

On steel string guitars, the design is brilliant and works as I described above. The pin needs to be the same size as the hole, and as such, there needs to be a slot in the pin to let the string through. We are not squeezing the string between the pin and the side of the hole.

KoAloha's design is completely different, even though it looks the same superficially, which just adds to the confusion. The KoAloha bridge has a slot in front of the hole, and uses a solid pin. As such, the KoAloha design is an under top slotted bridge. You tie a knot in the string and secure it under the top as you would secure a knotted string in a regular slotted bridge.
Once in place the pins can be removed as they aren't doing anything except being decoration. It's a GREAT design and it works well. It's just not a bridge pin bridge.
The pins are there for decoration. I guess they help with initially fitting the knotted strings in place under the top.
Don't confuse the two designs with each other.

I think you are describing Kanilea’s bridge pins. Koaloha uses a tie bar.

 

[anthonyg]

I think you are describing Kanilea’s bridge pins. Koaloha uses a tie bar.

Opps. Yes I mixed the names up.

 

[timeconsumer]

Thanks for all the replies. I finally understood what you all meant and made sure that the tiny bead I secured at the end of the string sits next to the pin and not under it, but now my issue is that the string snaps! I’m at my wits’ end, I really don’t know why it breaks.

 

[merlin666]

I would ask the builder to replace bridge with a proper tie or slotted bridge that tend to be much less problematic.

 

[anthonyg]

Thanks for all the replies. I finally understood what you all meant and made sure that the tiny bead I secured at the end of the string sits next to the pin and not under it, but now my issue is that the string snaps! I’m at my wits’ end, I really don’t know why it breaks.

The usual culprit for strings snapping is a sharp edge at the point it's snapping.
Where the string is snapping, look for a sharp edge that needs to be smoothed.

Changing bridges is out of the question. After a little refining, the system will work well.

 

[70sSanO]

As others have said, there could a sharp. That edge might even be the edge of the bead hole.

You’ll feel bd the source and then it won’t and issue any more.

John

 

[bbkobabe]

The old guys used to rub the end of the pin in cigarette ash if they popped out... picking up smoking won't stop the string break issue problem tho...

 

[kkimura]

Here's a great picture from one of gustophersmob's posts on bracing. showing the pin to string end relationship.

 

[rustydusty]

The biggest problem with pin bridges on ukes is the small selection of beaded strings to choose from.
I would recommend checking out beaded sets for “classical” guitars…