Non-VOC finishes

tonyturley

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My latest build was finished in several thin layers of thinned oil-based poly over several thin layers of 1 lb shellac, buffing lightly with gray Scotchbrite between layers. I like the way the finish turned out, but I'm looking to eliminate VOC-containing finishes and thinners from my shop. I also make bowls from offcuts from downed trees I find, and I have a variety of finishes I've used. Yesterday I decided to order some Odie's Oil after watching a variety of videos and reading reviews. There was a post on UU about 8 years ago where a member was trying to sell a uke that had been finished in Odie's, and he said he had switched to that exclusively. However, he hasn't been seen on the forum for years, so no way to ask him any questions. It's the only post that comes up if I search UU for "Odie's", so I'm assuming no one else has tried it on a uke.

I'm going to try the Odie's on a piece of scrap tonewood before I use it on anything important. Other than Odie's, what other non-VOC finishes are there suitable for a uke? Shellac comes to mind. Anything else?
 
what other non-VOC finishes are there suitable for a uke? Shellac comes to mind. Anything else?

Not to be picky or anything, but shellac contains alcohol and is therefore a VOC containing finish.

Volatile organic compounds, or VOCs are organic chemical compounds whose composition makes it possible for them to evaporate under normal indoor atmospheric conditions of temperature and pressure.

I've tried a number of water based finishing compounds that claimed to be VOC free. I hated all of them. Difficult to work with and final finishes looked "plasticky" to my eye which I think is what they are in the end. There may be great non-VOC finishes out there, but I never found one. Maybe the polyurethane finishes are VOC free and I've seen some stunning examples of it (Allen).
 
For back and sides, SystemThree SilverTip epoxy. No VOCs but wear latex gloves to avoid sensitization that some people experience with epoxies. Sand to 600P before finishing and be sure to remove all scratches, etc. Thin 10% by weight with lacquer thinner. Wipe on and thoroughly wipe with blue shop towels. Be sure not to leave any excess. The number of coats depends upon the wood and the result that you favor. There is no amine blush to be removed between coats. You can recoat for 72 hours without sanding and, if you wipe each coat properly, there is no need for sanding between coats. The result is a nice satin-to-gloss finish that is attractive and durable. It is a great coating for nicely playable necks and is resistant to degradation by hand oils.

For tops, Tru-Oil, also several coats applied wipe-on, wipe off. Tru-oil isn't free of VOCs but I find it way less obnoxious than the alternatives. I've heard it said that epoxy is sound-deadening but haven't experienced that when a very thin coat is applied to a top as a base for Tru-Oil and to provide some hardness when using the softer species such as redwood and WRC.

If you doubt the suitability of epoxy and Tru-Oil, search on YouTube for "Ken Parker finish" and watch his series of videos on the subject. His archtop guitars sell for $30,000 plus. This is an interesting read:

 
An alternative to Odie's Oil could be Osmo PolyX oil. Haven't used it yet, but I've seen some videos on YouTube that make me want to try it.
 
Doesn't this kinda defeat the "no VOC" mandate?'
" Defeat" is putting it far too strongly. This is vastly better than, say, using wipe-on poly in a similar manner. Since the epoxy is applied very sparingly, the batches are quite small. I often don't use the lacquer thinner at all. It does improve spreadability and smoothness of the result, which is helpful on necks, where the batch size for one application is maybe 15g, and on final coats on the body.
 
Thanks for the replies. I've used Tru-Oil on several instruments, and you're right about it not being noxious like other VOC finishes. However, I've struggled to get consistent results. I built a small parlor guitar that used Tru-Oil over shellac, and the finish was very nice. I tried the same finishing protocol on the next instrument I built, and really struggled to keep witness lines out of the topcoat. I've seen Osmo used in videos, but have never tried it. I do want to get away from smelly thinners other than alcohol, which evaporates quickly and doesn't leave the work area smelling like a chemical factory. I've used thinned oil-based poly on both bowls and my most recent uke build, and I like the results, but the mild oily smell lingers for days.
 
For the shellac I mix mine with EverClear 190 proof grain alcohol. No poisonous denatured fumes. The shellac is almost odorless when applied. You can drink the stuff. You can also get 190 proof food-grade ethanol, just make sure it is not 'denatured'.
For finish I have been using 'Brite Tone Instrument Finish' from CrystaLac. https://thecrystalacstore.com/products/brite-tone-instrument-finish It is water-based, easy cleanup, completely odorless, very hard, and you can wet-sand and buff it. Great clarity, no blue tinge like a lot fo water-based finishes. I have used it over both shellac and a filler coat of CA glue. I do not have spray equipemnt and apply it with a very good quality wide polyester artist brush. (I have been using the gloss, they make a satin I have not tried.)
 
Thanks for the additional recommendations. I have mixed my shellac flakes with EOX 190 proof non-denatured alcohol, but it's no longer available on Amazon. Everything available through Amazon now is denatured. I still have some EOX on hand, but I need to get some more food grade alcohol.
 
Thanks for the additional recommendations. I have mixed my shellac flakes with EOX 190 proof non-denatured alcohol, but it's no longer available on Amazon. Everything available through Amazon now is denatured. I still have some EOX on hand, but I need to get some more food grade alcohol.
I suppose it depends on where you live, I'm in Hawaii, but a couple of years ago I bought a case of Everclear 190 proof on the web. just ordered it from a wine and spirit site on the web. No issues. Never asked my age. Just shipped it. That was before I realized I could actually find it at my local liquor store in Hilo.
 
i use emtech EM6000 gloss and semi gloss which is a water-based lacquer. it has the appearance of nitrocellulose but in a ultra low VOC formulae that has minimal odour and is easier for clean up and disposal. best to look up the product and read about it but for me, being in an apartment, it worked great and my wife didn't complain about the smell. i built 2 basses and loved the finish when i was done. it cuts in to the last coat and you can put on 3 coats in a couple hours. no witness lines with this product. best of luck hunting for your finish.
 
i use emtech EM6000 gloss and semi gloss which is a water-based lacquer. it has the appearance of nitrocellulose but in a ultra low VOC formulae that has minimal odour and is easier for clean up and disposal. best to look up the product and read about it but for me, being in an apartment, it worked great and my wife didn't complain about the smell. i built 2 basses and loved the finish when i was done. it cuts in to the last coat and you can put on 3 coats in a couple hours. no witness lines with this product. best of luck hunting for your finish.
Thanks for that info.
 
I have a few ukuleles that were made by Italian luthier Marco Todeschini (Antica Ukuleleria). Those of you who have followed him (including Barry Maz "Baz" reviews) will have learned of his "green choices" and concern over products that will cause HIM harm in the shop. He recently discontinued a very popular style/build after he discovered some of the hidden VOC hazard.

Separately he uses/has used two finishes that passed the "no VOC" requirements: Odie Oils, and Rubio MonoCoat Pure. My first two builds used Rubio, which he subsequently stopped using because of the curing accelerant that had to be used to shorten the cure time. Without it, he had to wait 2-3 WEEKS before moving on to final steps. The accelerant did add some VOC's and shortened the cure to 3-4 days.

Odie doesn't have as long as a cure/finish time, but doesn't provide as much of the protections as does Rubio Monocote. FWIW, Rubio was created as a high traffic flooring product (check out the Hx on their website) and eventually adopted as fine finishes for woodworkers/furniture makers. (Which is where I first encountered it).

I've tried Odie on furniture and don't care for the lingering oil-like aroma. My third Antica was finished with Odie. I've had it for around 6m months and can still smell a slight hint of the oil....when I first remove it from the case (case doesn't smell) or when I intentionally sniff it !!

Personally, if I were building my own ukes, and had the time, Rubio would be my number one choice. I'd just avoid the accelerant and be patient. I still use Rubio on my furniture products. Of note, on an oak dining table for my daughter. It has survived unstained, indented, and color-fast for over two years....that includes two years of infant trials as my grandson grew from age 2 to age 4. Lots of messes, kid paints, markers, etc.
 
According to the Rubio UK website, the accelerant is 0% VOC, same as the Plus 2C oil itself. However given the descriptive blurb about bonding with the wood fibres, I suspect it might not work over an epoxy grain fill? I'm interested in a Tru-oil alternative, so will contact them at some stage to find out!
 
I have used Odie's on a variety of woodturning projects, and have liked the results. I've also experimented with it on some tone wood scraps, but not on any finished instruments. Still mulling it over.
 
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