I have a problem with compensated saddles (Kiwaya / Famous)

My Famous/Kiwaya FS-1 had a problem with incessant buzzing (probably operator error; I’m a pretty sloppy player technically). The low action at the nut and saddle, along with the super-low frets, compounded the issue.

HI,
The issue you're describing is not related to operator error. In my experience on about 5 or 6 instruments, Kiwaya / Famous have a low to stupidly low action. I've had a few examples (including a FS-1) with about 1.4 mm action at the 12th fret. That's just way too low and any slightly vigorous strum will end up in buzzing. The stock strings are also very loose which worsen the problem.

Keep in mind these ukes are made for beginners who play timidly and like an "easy action". I also think japanese players tend to be more gentle and delicate with their instruments.

We currently have 3 Famous ukes. My GF has a fantastic FS-4P. It's an older model with straight ebony saddle. Action is about 2mm (low but ok). Intonation is perfect. I have a FGS-3 limited edition, set up about the same, with same good action and great intonation (using Worth BM on these two). I finally have a FS-6 which has about 1.7mm action and a compensated saddle. Action on this uke is too low and any strong strum creates buzzing. The stock (overly) compensated saddle is also not a good thing for intonation. I'll carve a new straight ebony saddle for this one, just like on my GF's FS-4P, and set the action to about 2.3mm (perfect for me).

Using stiffer strings than stock is a step in the good direction but I encourage you to put a shim under your bridge saddle. A strip or 2 of business card would give you an idea. It you like the result, use some equivalent wooden shims. Or even better, carve a new taller saddle and don't compensate it quite as much (or leave it straight).
 
My non-compensated tenors all go ~ 10 cents sharp on the 2nd and 3rd strings at the 12th fret. My compensated Martin and Kanilea both have perfect intonation. My compensated Martin and Kiwayas sopranos seem to have good intonation, though I haven’t tested them with my advanced tuner.

My Koaloha tenor is the worst out of tune. I had to turn the saddle around, so the point is farther from the nut, and it is still at least 10 cents sharp at the 12th on the 2-4 strings. This is with the factory strings and the ones from UkeSA.
 
HI,
The issue you're describing is not related to operator error. In my experience on about 5 or 6 instruments, Kiwaya / Famous have a low to stupidly low action. I've had a few examples (including a FS-1) with about 1.4 mm action at the 12th fret. That's just way too low and any slightly vigorous strum will end up in buzzing. The stock strings are also very loose which worsen the problem.

Keep in mind these ukes are made for beginners who play timidly and like an "easy action". I also think japanese players tend to be more gentle and delicate with their instruments.

We currently have 3 Famous ukes. My GF has a fantastic FS-4P. It's an older model with straight ebony saddle. Action is about 2mm (low but ok). Intonation is perfect. I have a FGS-3 limited edition, set up about the same, with same good action and great intonation (using Worth BM on these two). I finally have a FS-6 which has about 1.7mm action and a compensated saddle. Action on this uke is too low and any strong strum creates buzzing. The stock (overly) compensated saddle is also not a good thing for intonation. I'll carve a new straight ebony saddle for this one, just like on my GF's FS-4P, and set the action to about 2.3mm (perfect for me).

Using stiffer strings than stock is a step in the good direction but I encourage you to put a shim under your bridge saddle. A strip or 2 of business card would give you an idea. It you like the result, use some equivalent wooden shims. Or even better, carve a new taller saddle and don't compensate it quite as much (or leave it straight).
Thanks. It’s not just my imagination. I switched from M600s to Nyltechs. They’re less buzzy (though I prefer fluoros in nearly all cases). I am tempted to go with a taller, straight saddle.
 
Compensation is to counteract the effect of uneven tension across the 4 strings and that was dialed in with strings at a certain tension. So theoretically it should matter if you changed from one tension to another. Saying that, my HF-1 is intoned and came with really tight nylon and now has slinky worth clear mediums. Intonation is still fine within human error. By that i mean that medium flourocarbon at soprano scale is really slinky and its easy for me to un-intentionally microbend based on fretting pressure or just slip sliding around anyway
 
[Not on Kiwaya]. Fluorocarbons - I found my intonation worse on an E string than a fatter C string with a straight saddle. Thinking of things like Argapa with a carved, compensated-C-only saddle. Made me think that we have no real knowledge of where tension worst affects, other than by other peoples' experience of the same string scale, density, and diameters.
 
Hello,

I must add that I'm only talking about Kiwayas / Famous here (and to an extent Mahalos, but who care about them anyways ?).
These ukes have a 2mm thick saddle or so with the G and A strings breaking at the very front of the saddle and the C and E strings breaking at the very back of the saddle. Meaning there's about 2 mm of scale difference between the G / A and C / E. That's a LOT.
Even if the theory of compensation works, in this case, sorry, but the real world results are not positive (whatever strings are used - it just can't work).

A smaller amount of comprensation, I'm sure, would yield better results (0.5 mm? 1mm?)
 
Hello,

I must add that I'm only talking about Kiwayas / Famous here (and to an extent Mahalos, but who care about them anyways ?).
These ukes have a 2mm thick saddle or so with the G and A strings breaking at the very front of the saddle and the C and E strings breaking at the very back of the saddle. Meaning there's about 2 mm of scale difference between the G / A and C / E. That's a LOT.
Even if the theory of compensation works, in this case, sorry, but the real world results are not positive (whatever strings are used - it just can't work).

A smaller amount of comprensation, I'm sure, would yield better results (0.5 mm? 1mm?)
Interesting!
 
Thanks. It’s not just my imagination. I switched from M600s to Nyltechs. They’re less buzzy (though I prefer fluoros in nearly all cases). I am tempted to go with a taller, straight saddle.
Thought I would let you know about my Famous FS-6 adventures.

My Famous is now back from the luthier sporting a new taller ebony saddle. Action was set at 2.3mm just like on my vintage Martin Style 0.
Wow, it really makes a huge difference. It feels so much better to be able to dig in and have the uke respond accordingly. It's like the uke was choked with the stock saddle and too low action.

Also, I asked the luthier to make the saddle only slightly compensated, and I'm happy with the results with Worth BM and Kamaka black nylon strings.
.
What a great uke it is now. I really invite you to do the same (or simply try the business card saddle shim trick - takes 5 minutes) and costs nothing).
 
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