Dividing the fretboard into zones? (Like shifting positions on a violin)

[greenfrog]

I am new to ukulele, but play other instruments (mostly viola, violin and piano, and some dabbling with other things). I am a very ear-oriented player - I can read music on viola and (badly) on piano, but my brain's primary way of learning an instrument or a song involves hearing in my head what pitches/intervals I want and then my fingers going to the right place to play them.

This has plusses and minuses - it's awesome for transposing or learning songs by ear, but there are some instruments (including ukulele and guitar) where my brain never seems to connect in a way that lets me do this. Over the past decade I've had two failed attempts at guitar and one at ukulele. I can strum some basic chords and learn a few songs through a lot of repetition, but I never develop the mental map that lets me go straight from a note in my head to my fingers playing it.

I think the main thing that trips my brain up is that I hear the same note in multiple different places all over the fretboard. Not just an octave up or down, the exact same note.

I'm about to make another attempt at learning the ukulele, and this time I'm hoping to divide the fretboard into zones, a little like shifting positions on the viola/violin. So my brain will learn something like "when my hand is near the first fret, this is how I play the pitches I want" and then "when my hand is near the fifth fret, this is how I play the pitches I want" etc. And then hopefully over time my brain will stitch those zones together into a complete auditory map of the fretboard. (To be clear, I don't mean bar chords - I'm thinking of scales/melodies/etc.)

I've made a drawing of what I think would be "first" "fifth" and "tenth" positions on a ukulele. (It's OK if zones partially overlap, I just drew non-overlapping zones because I don't know enough to know if something else would be better.) My goal is to start with whichever 2-3 zones/positions will be the most useful when actually playing - ones that would let me stay in one zone for a little while instead of moving up and down the neck every few notes when playing a melody. Are the zones I drew a good way to divide things up, or is there something else that would make more sense/be more practical to use?

Or does anyone know of any established systems or beginner courses that split the fretboard up in a similar way?

(Caveat to other beginners: I don't know what I'm doing, and my ukulele doesn't even get here until Wednesday. The zones I drew might turn out to be a terrible way to learn the ukulele. Please listen to what the experienced players say, not to me.)

 

[Mike $]

I don't know any systems that address this, but when I think of the neck zones, I think from open strings to the 4th fret as "down the neck", then from the 5th fret through the 8th fret is the "middle of the neck", and finally from fret 9 and up is "up the neck".

 

[dgame]

This video explains the ukulele fretboard:

 

[greenfrog]

I don't know any systems that address this, but when I think of the neck zones, I think from open strings to the 4th fret as "down the neck", then from the 5th fret through the 8th fret is the "middle of the neck", and finally from fret 9 and up is "up the neck".

Thank you!!

When you’re going for a higher note than the ones you just played, how do you decide whether to go up the string to play it or across to a different string?

 

[greenfrog]

Look up a thing called the CAGED system. It is mostly for guitar, but you may find the ukulele discussion of CAGED is doing what you are looking at. On a ukulele it may translate to FDCAG in he shapes.

If I’m understanding what I just read, the idea is that for a chord, most of the different ways to play the chord are one of five basic shapes, and for a given chord (say D), the D chords made from different shapes are connected by notes they share in a pattern going up the neck? And once you know the patterns you can use them to navigate the whole fretboard in whatever key you need?

That sounds fantastic — thank you!!!

 

[ploverwing]

Thank you!!

When you’re going for a high note, how do you decide whether to go up the string to play it or across to a different string?

Thoughts from another noob: I feel your confusion! I am from a violin background and also do a lot of learning by ear, and boy, have I ever struggled with what you're speaking of. I've just doggedly practiced A LOT, and that's helped to cement stuff in better. So many people here have offered great resources for learning the fretboard, and I'm gradually getting there. I kind of do a weird amalgam of hearing and seeing, since I can sight read on violin, so I'm getting there pretty well for first position on ukulele (and building up for other positions too, with the help of my ear).

With respect to this above question: for me, I either do what I'm told (i.e. if someone provides tab along with standard notation, I'll follow the recommended fingering) or I figure out that if it's comfy in one position to reach everything (or most of what) I need, then I'll work across strings. I don't necessarily love moving up & down the fretboard as much as I did on the violin, it's feels so different (I'm sure there's a technical reason), so if I like the fingering up the fretboard better than in first position, I'll move the whole thing to a different position. Does that make sense? My brain is tired, so I apologize if not. The other thing that totally throws my violin brain is the reentrant tuning (the fourth string NOT being tuned lower than the third and second strings, still so bizarre), but I've subsequently learned some songs that utilize that reentrant tuning beautifully.

I think that once you start playing and practicing, it'll start to make sense. I kept putting my fingers in exactly the right spot for violin and completely the wrong spots (mostly) for ukulele, and wanting to play open notes where it should be fretted... I'd say I had a solid three months of that. I still flub periodically, but now that I've got some practice hours under my fingers, I'm a lot better with ukulele fingering and knowing what to do when.

 

[Mike $]

Thank you!!

When you’re going for a higher note than the ones you just played, how do you decide whether to go up the string to play it or across to a different string?

I would do which ever is easier to play the note or notes after the next one. Smoothness comes from being prepared and being in the best position to do what's next.

 

[greenfrog]

With respect to this above question: for me, I either do what I'm told (i.e. if someone provides tab along with standard notation, I'll follow the recommended fingering) or I figure out that if it's comfy in one position to reach everything (or most of what) I need, then I'll work across strings. I don't necessarily love moving up & down the fretboard as much as I did on the violin, it's feels so different (I'm sure there's a technical reason), so if I like the fingering up the fretboard better than in first position, I'll move the whole thing to a different position. Does that make sense? My brain is tired, so I apologize if not.

Makes sense!! No point in doing an awkward finger contortion if there’s an easier way to reach the notes somewhere else on the neck.

The other thing that totally throws my violin brain is the reentrant tuning (the fourth string NOT being tuned lower than the third and second strings, still so bizarre), but I've subsequently learned some songs that utilize that reentrant tuning beautifully.

This!!

Also, the fourths and then C->E not being a fourth. All the patterns across strings that I didn’t even realize I was using were based on fifths, so it was really weird when they weren’t there.

But there are always some stumbling blocks with a new instrument. I had the same type of thing when I first went piano->viola… “Which third finger do you mean, the rude one or the other one?”

I think that once you start playing and practicing, it'll start to make sense. I kept putting my fingers in exactly the right spot for violin and completely the wrong spots (mostly) for ukulele, and wanting to play open notes where it should be fretted... I'd say I had a solid three months of that. I still flub periodically, but now that I've got some practice hours under my fingers, I'm a lot better with ukulele fingering and knowing what to do when.

I hope so… I’m optimistic that CAGED/CAGFD will help it make a lot more sense this time. There is an underlying pattern, just a new/different one to learn!

 

[greenfrog]

Did a post just disappear from this thread?

Someone wrote a really nice reply that mentioned CAGE boxes and root notes and making things more flexible, and was thinking of teaching a course, and now I can’t find that reply anymore.

To the author of that post - thank you, I really like your way of thinking about this! And if you end up making the course I would LOVE to join it!!

 

[casualmusic]

Hi Greenfrog

Welcome to the forum.

Your approach is thoughtful and thorough. But there is a structural difference between violin and ukulele tuning that might make it too complicated to be practical.

May I offer:
A. A ‘right now’ response to making music on a ukulele,
B. An ‘alternatives’ response,
C. Technical things to consider when deciding whether to adapt your violin method versus learning ukulele (guitar) methods.

My perspective is from the opposite direction where I started from guitar/ukulele a few years ago and am now starting mandolin/violin.

I am new to ukulele, but play other instruments (mostly viola, violin and piano, and some dabbling with other things). I am a very ear-oriented player - I can read music on viola and (badly) on piano, but my brain's primary way of learning an instrument or a song involves hearing in my head what pitches/intervals I want and then my fingers going to the right place to play them.

A. Suggestion for right now:

I suggest that you begin enjoy playing the ukulele immediately by replacing the strings on your with a set tuned in fifths like the violin/mandolin G3 D4 A5 E5 (1st choice) or the viola/mandola C3 G3 D4 A5.

Aquila offers ukulele strings tuned in fifths:
- 30u for soprano uke (13” scale) tuned G3 D4 A5 E5 like the mandolin / violin
- 30u can also be used for tenor uke (17” scale) tuned G2 D3 A4 A5 an octave below mandolin / violin
- 31u for concert uke (15” scale) tuned C3 G3 D4 A5 like the mandola / viola.

Aquila Concert Uke strings in fifths tuning

Hello gang! I thought I read somewhere that the Aquila Nylgut Concert sized (31U I think) in fifths tuning (CGDA) also fit on tenor ukuleles. Can someone here confirm this please. I see they offer soprano and concert sets, but thought I read that the concert set also fits tenor. It would be...

forum.ukuleleunderground.com

Get a chart of mandolin chords (or mandola chords) to learn the chords in fifths tuning.

Other ukulele players won’t notice the difference unless they try to follow your playing by watching your fingers.


B. Alternatives:

You might be happy enough with this approach. And avoid the work needed to learn to play the GCEA ukulele or EADGBE guitar.

You might find that a tenor ukulele strung an octave below violin/mandolin might sound weak on the bass notes. Using the bigger body of the baritone ukulele will give stronger bass notes and higher overall volume. Search the forum for ‘baritone fifths’ for ways to adapt string sets for classical guitar.

A future step might be to try other four string instruments tuned in fifths for variety, or for more volume to play alongside bigger instruments:
- mandolin - same tuning as violin
- mandola - same as viola
- standard tuning tenor guitar and tenor banjo, same as viola
- Irish tuning tenor guitar and tenor banjo and octave mandolin - an octave below mandolin / violin

There is plenty of discussion and support for fifth tuning:

Mandolin Cafe

Mandolin Cafe - a community that includes classifieds, forum, music and historical information.

www.mandolincafe.com

Over the past decade I've had two failed attempts at guitar and one at ukulele. I can strum some basic chords and learn a few songs through a lot of repetition, but I never develop the mental map that lets me go straight from a note in my head to my fingers playing it.

C. Some reasons for difficulties (overview, not specific):

Player mind mappings between instruments strung in fifths (violin, viola, etc) versus fourths (ukuleles, guitars) are different.


In fifths instruments the unfretted notes (open strings) repeat every seven frets, and the intervals across the fretboard are *even*. The even fret spacing is great for framing single note melodies consistently over the entire fretboard. But chords sound a bit less harmonious than on the closer spaced guitars and ukuleles.


In guitars and ukuleles strung in fourths the unfretted notes repeat every five frets except once where it’s four frets. This close spacing is great for harmonious chords.

But the stutter step from five frets to four frets is contrary to the smooth framing found in the violin, which means your consistent framing method will need exceptions each time the spacing offsets from five to four frets and back.

The stutter strep spacing of guitar and ukulele leads to methods such as fretting melodies in ‘triads’ of three adjacent strings, shifting from triad to triad and position to position as needed. You can see this in videos of guitar players fretting classical music and popular music.

You will also see triads used for partial chord ‘inversions’ up and down the fretboard. Many players use their knowledge of the notes in the ‘movable’ inverted chord shapes to locate adjacent notes when playing melodies and solos (a version of ‘framing’).

Other popular methodto improvise parallel and counter melodies by playing partial scales and arpeggios, and by using chords to play finger picking patterns or chord melodies.

I think the main thing that trips my brain up is that I hear the same note in multiple different places all over the fretboard

Yes. This repetition happens for both fifths tunings and fourths tunings. It’s more noticeable on guitars and ukuleles because it repeats every five frets instead of every seven frets.

In fifths it is not an issue because it is even spaced on the fretboard; both from side to side and up and down.

It’s noticeable in fourths tuning because to a player accustomed to fifths tuning the stutter step makes some notes seem to pop up in irregular places.

I'm about to make another attempt at learning the ukulele, and this time I'm hoping to divide the fretboard into zones, a little like shifting positions on the viola/violin. So my brain will learn something like "when my hand is near the first fret, this is how I play the pitches I want" and then "when my hand is near the fifth fret, this is how I play the pitches I want" etc.

My opinion:

If I had your advanced skills and mind maps of fifths tuning, I’d use it on the ukulele tuned in fifths to immediately start playing a wide repertoire of music at an intermediate or advanced level (instead of starting at a beginner level in fourths tuning).

And I’d avoid the frustrations of force fitting your elegant mind mappings onto the quirky ukulele fretboard map.

Otherwise, I’d start at the beginning using guitar (ukulele) fretting methods. A good teacher who plays both the violin and guitar (ukulele) can tailor your lessons and give great advise. Progress ought to be faster than other beginners because you have an advanced understanding and ear for music.

Or does anyone know of any established systems or beginner courses that split the fretboard up in a similar way?

The methods and systems I’ve seen split up the guitar and ukulele fretboards in different ways.

They’re equally powerful but aren’t as elegant as yours because they address the stutter steps in tuning across the fourths fretboard.


Best regards.

 

[Patty]

Hi Greenfrog

Welcome to the forum.

Your approach is thoughtful and thorough. But there is a structural difference between violin and ukulele tuning that might make it too complicated to be practical.

May I offer:
A. A ‘right now’ response to making music on a ukulele,
B. An ‘alternatives’ response,
C. Technical things to consider when deciding whether to adapt your violin method versus learning ukulele (guitar) methods.

My perspective is from the opposite direction where I started from guitar/ukulele a few years ago and am now starting mandolin/violin.




A. Suggestion for right now:

I suggest that you begin enjoy playing the ukulele immediately by replacing the strings on your with a set tuned in fifths like the violin/mandolin G3 D4 A5 E5 (1st choice) or the viola/mandola C3 G3 D4 A5.

Aquila offers ukulele strings tuned in fifths:
- 30u for soprano uke (13” scale) tuned G3 D4 A5 E5 like the mandolin / violin
- 30u can also be used for tenor uke (17” scale) tuned G2 D3 A4 A5 an octave below mandolin / violin
- 31u for concert uke (15” scale) tuned C3 G3 D4 A5 like the mandola / viola.

Aquila Concert Uke strings in fifths tuning

Hello gang! I thought I read somewhere that the Aquila Nylgut Concert sized (31U I think) in fifths tuning (CGDA) also fit on tenor ukuleles. Can someone here confirm this please. I see they offer soprano and concert sets, but thought I read that the concert set also fits tenor. It would be...

forum.ukuleleunderground.com

Get a chart of mandolin chords (or mandola chords) to learn the chords in fifths tuning.

Other ukulele players won’t notice the difference unless they try to follow your playing by watching your fingers.


B. Alternatives:

You might be happy enough with this approach. And avoid the work needed to learn to play the GCEA ukulele or EADGBE guitar.

You might find that a tenor ukulele strung an octave below violin/mandolin might sound weak on the bass notes. Using the bigger body of the baritone ukulele will give stronger bass notes and higher overall volume. Search the forum for ‘baritone fifths’ for ways to adapt string sets for classical guitar.

A future step might be to try other four string instruments tuned in fifths for variety, or for more volume to play alongside bigger instruments:
- mandolin - same tuning as violin
- mandola - same as viola
- standard tuning tenor guitar and tenor banjo, same as viola
- Irish tuning tenor guitar and tenor banjo and octave mandolin - an octave below mandolin / violin

There is plenty of discussion and support for fifth tuning:

Mandolin Cafe

Mandolin Cafe - a community that includes classifieds, forum, music and historical information.

www.mandolincafe.com

C. Some reasons for difficulties (overview, not specific):

Player mind mappings between instruments strung in fifths (violin, viola, etc) versus fourths (ukuleles, guitars) are different.


In fifths instruments the unfretted notes (open strings) repeat every seven frets, and the intervals across the fretboard are *even*. The even fret spacing is great for framing single note melodies consistently over the entire fretboard. But chords sound a bit less harmonious than on the closer spaced guitars and ukuleles.


In guitars and ukuleles strung in fourths the unfretted notes repeat every five frets except once where it’s four frets. This close spacing is great for harmonious chords.

But the stutter step from five frets to four frets is contrary to the smooth framing found in the violin, which means your consistent framing method will need exceptions each time the spacing offsets from five to four frets and back.

The stutter strep spacing of guitar and ukulele leads to methods such as fretting melodies in ‘triads’ of three adjacent strings, shifting from triad to triad and position to position as needed. You can see this in videos of guitar players fretting classical music and popular music.

You will also see triads used for partial chord ‘inversions’ up and down the fretboard. Many players use their knowledge of the notes in the ‘movable’ inverted chord shapes to locate adjacent notes when playing melodies and solos (a version of ‘framing’).

Other popular methodto improvise parallel and counter melodies by playing partial scales and arpeggios, and by using chords to play finger picking patterns or chord melodies.




Yes. This repetition happens for both fifths tunings and fourths tunings. It’s more noticeable on guitars and ukuleles because it repeats every five frets instead of every seven frets.

In fifths it is not an issue because it is even spaced on the fretboard; both from side to side and up and down.

It’s noticeable in fourths tuning because to a player accustomed to fifths tuning the stutter step makes some notes seem to pop up in irregular places.




My opinion:

If I had your advanced skills and mind maps of fifths tuning, I’d use it on the ukulele tuned in fifths to immediately start playing a wide repertoire of music at an intermediate or advanced level (instead of starting at a beginner level in fourths tuning).

And I’d avoid the frustrations of force fitting your elegant mind mappings onto the quirky ukulele fretboard map.

Otherwise, I’d start at the beginning using guitar (ukulele) fretting methods. A good teacher who plays both the violin and guitar (ukulele) can tailor your lessons and give great advise. Progress ought to be faster than other beginners because you have an advanced understanding and ear for music.




The methods and systems I’ve seen split up the guitar and ukulele fretboards in different ways.

They’re equally powerful but aren’t as elegant as yours because they address the stutter steps in tuning across the fourths fretboard.


Best regards.

To follow up on what casualmusic (most generously) just wrote, the amazing Scots musician Rob MacKillop recently published a book devoted to playing the ukulele in fifths tuning. And the classical player Daniel Estrem plays his own arrangements for the ukulele in fifths.

 

[ripock]

As someone else who migrated to ukulele from another instrument, I'll tell you what my issue was: the same note occurs in several zones. So you have to get used to that note's relationships in each zone. I don't have a system I followed, I just dealt with the issue by practice and gaining familiarity.

 

[ukudancer]

Thank you!!

When you’re going for a higher note than the ones you just played, how do you decide whether to go up the string to play it or across to a different string?

Comfort, playability and sound quality. That last part usually comes up when I'm confronted by playing an open string or a fretted note...I'll choose between these factors depending on what the song calls for.

 

[ploverwing]

C. Some reasons for difficulties (overview, not specific):

Well, these comments overall are excellent and very helpful, casualmusic, thank you. I'm kind of glad, though, that I didn't know that ukuleles could be tuned in fifths, because I would have taken that route initially, since it would have been "easier" (although I seriously doubt I'm anywhere near as accomplished as greenfrog with my musicianship skills). I've actually really enjoyed the challenge of figuring out this new layout and fingering etc. Your third section of comments especially helped me to understand my struggle between the two instruments (violin & ukulele/guitar).

I did try mandolin first, since it's tuned exactly the same as a violin, and ultimately had to stop because 1) I really struggled to fret for chords (it was "ok" for picking) and 2) I have a tendon injury to my right thumb that makes using a pick unbearable pretty quickly. I seem to be ok fingerpicking with the ukulele, even though the thumb does feel it a little, it doesn't cause it to become completely useless.

Thanks a lot for starting this thread greenfrog, I've picked up a lot of interesting stuff from it! Plus, I share your struggle; I'm here to offer moral support.

 

[Mike $]

To follow up on what casualmusic (most generously) just wrote, the amazing Scots musician Rob MacKillop recently published a book devoted to playing the ukulele in fifths tuning. And the classical player Daniel Estrem plays his own arrangements for the ukulele in fifths.

Tenor guitars and banjos are tuned this way. I have been trying to get familiar with it, but don't have the patience.

 

[greenfrog]

May I offer:
A. A ‘right now’ response to making music on a ukulele,
B. An ‘alternatives’ response,
C. Technical things to consider when deciding whether to adapt your violin method versus learning ukulele (guitar) methods.

My perspective is from the opposite direction where I started from guitar/ukulele a few years ago and am now starting mandolin/violin.

Wow!!! Wow wow wow! Thank you for such a detailed and thorough reply!!

If I reach the point of having multiple ukuleles, I will definitely have one tuned in fifths! But for now while I only have one, I think I'll try to learn to play it with regular tuning. Thanks for mentioning specific strings/sizes that would be appropriate for this, I'm tempted to start doing the "multiple ukuleles" thing sooner now!

The stutter strep spacing of guitar and ukulele leads to methods such as fretting melodies in ‘triads’ of three adjacent strings, shifting from triad to triad and position to position as needed. You can see this in videos of guitar players fretting classical music and popular music.

You will also see triads used for partial chord ‘inversions’ up and down the fretboard. Many players use their knowledge of the notes in the ‘movable’ inverted chord shapes to locate adjacent notes when playing melodies and solos (a version of ‘framing’).

Other popular methodto improvise parallel and counter melodies by playing partial scales and arpeggios, and by using chords to play finger picking patterns or chord melodies.

Very cool!!

Looking forward to learning more about triads and giving it a try!

Yes. This repetition happens for both fifths tunings and fourths tunings. It’s more noticeable on guitars and ukuleles because it repeats every five frets instead of every seven frets.

In fifths it is not an issue because it is even spaced on the fretboard; both from side to side and up and down.

It’s noticeable in fourths tuning because to a player accustomed to fifths tuning the stutter step makes some notes seem to pop up in irregular places.

Definitely agree with this.

Although I can also see the advantage of fourths - that thing with finding versions of a chord all the way up the neck is really cool!

If I had your advanced skills and mind maps of fifths tuning, I’d use it on the ukulele tuned in fifths to immediately start playing a wide repertoire of music at an intermediate or advanced level (instead of starting at a beginner level in fourths tuning).

Thank you! I'm tempted, but I'm afraid if I do I'll never end up playing the ukulele in its regular tuning.

I think I'm going to treat this like a language immersion and do only regular tuning at first until my brain starts to get the hang of it. But if I get too frustrated or am not having fun, it's good to know that fifths tuning is an option.

 

[cdkrugjr]

“Fretboard Roadmaps” covers this topic very well. There are about a GAZILLION different books and videos on this topic . . . The idea of moveable scale and chord shapes is a HUGE hurdle in learning stringed instruments of all sorts, so is a popular topic for books and videos.

 

[casualmusic]

I think I'm going to treat this like a language immersion and do only regular tuning at first until my brain starts to get the hang of it.

Commitment! I love it!


More stuff:
D. Baritone tuning vs standard ukulele tuning.
E. Switching from violin single note melodies frameworks to baritone ukulele chordal frameworks
F. Exploring the elephant
G. Strategies, tactics, mechanics
H. This semester, next semester, future semesters


D. Baritone ukulele DGBE vs Standard ukulele GCEA:

On your hello thread you said you’ll have a baritone ukulele.

The versatile approach is to play it in its mainstream D3 G3 B4 E4 tuning (which are the same as strings 1-4 of the six string guitar). As a beginner resist other tunings.

The GCEA ukulele players won’t notice unless they are trying to copy your fret hand.

And guitar players are usually ready to answer questions and demo skills.


E. Switching from violin to baritone ukulele:

I’m guessing from your first posting that you want to play all over the fretboard.

First, replace your violin mind maps with triad mind maps. Triad methods are well established, useful on all parts of the fretboard, teachable and learnable.

Second, think in chord patterns instead of single note patterns. Chords take full advantage of baritone capabilities.

Chords provide a versatile framework for:
- basic chords in frets 1-5 (the money chords)
- moveable repeating chords up the fretboard (full chords and short chords)
- harmonious rhythms
- strum patterns for every genre
- chord melodies
- finger picking patterns
- hot licks and dynamics
- switching music ranges within a song across the fretboard from side to side and up and down
- easy use of the capo to instantly transpose into the key of the song caller, and play your favourite patterns and licks without needing to transpose in your head
- there is a broad and deep pool of expertise that maps easily from the six string guitar to the four string baritone ukulele.

Third, switch from recital mode to collaboration and improvisation.



I learned to play the baritone ukulele and guitar at the same time five years ago. All methods and skills transfer back and forth with minor tweaking when playing with ukulele groups and in guitar song circles. I’m good at some things and not so much at others; there’s a list for my guitar teacher.


F. Exploring the Elephant:

So what can the beastie do?
What do you want it to do?
What is a good learning sequence?
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blind_men_and_an_elephant


Here are some videos for perspective.

*** Watch how the players play triads on three adjacent strings. Note the closeness of chords and riff notes in each playing position. And that a lot of the activity happens on strings 1-4. ***

Activities on strings 1-4 (the thinnest) will map directly to baritone strings 1-4. The activities on strings 5-6 of the guitar are easy to map onto strings 1-4.

For your objective of playing all over the fretboard I suggest a good guitar teacher who also plays ukulele. A teacher who plays only GCEA ukulele may not be fluent with the DGBE fretboard and might not have a deep understanding of triad methods and mechanics.


==> Samples of guitars in action. Where do you want to begin?

Blues in A - Baritone Uke

Today we explore the 12 Bar Blues in the key of A on my Baritone uke. http://www.manitobahal.comhttp://patreon.com/ManitobaHalhttp://www.cfcaseyguitars.com

m.youtube.com

Freight Train - Baritone Ukulele Cover

Freight Train was written by Elizabeth Cotton in 1904 when she was 11 years old. It's been recorded by many folk musicians over the years and now I've finall...

m.youtube.com

"Hallelujah" by Leonard Cohen - Ukulele arrangement: Kimo Hussey - uke4free - 04.2017

"Hallelujah" by Leonard Cohen - Ukulele arrangement: Kimo Hussey - uke4free - 04.2017

m.youtube.com

IMPROVISATION - Baritone Ukulele

Here's an improvisation based loosely on the Liverpool folk tune "Johnny Todd". I am playing my Pereira Custom Baritone. It has re-entrant tuning (dGBE).

m.youtube.com

Guitar Boogie Arthur Smith

m.youtube.com

Tennessee Waltz

Join the fam! Check out our Patreon: http://patreon.com/reinadelcidReina del Cid and Toni Lindgren cover "Tennessee Waltz," by Patti Page (and later, Patsy C...

m.youtube.com

Sierra Hull - Just A Closer Walk With Thee (Party Barn Sessions)

Not sure about y'all, but I've really missed being around the channel. I had to unplug and take a much needed break from shooting, but I do have something sp...

m.youtube.com

==> A sampling of guitar tactics and mechanics:

1. A demo of a basic rhythm guitar method (there are many more: Hawaiian, calypso, honky tonk, boogie woogie, blues, Celtic, folk, country rock, etc)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cc4AxM0Nxa8

=> 1st of 8 beginner and 6 intermediate lessons:

Beginning Carter Picking Chapter 1

m.youtube.com

2. A demonstration of collaborative playing:

How to accompany a vocalist on guitar. Learn when to play, and when not! Guitar Lesson EP438

In this week's guitar lesson, you'll learn how to compliment a 2nd guitarist / vocalist by learning several techniques that are designed enhance the overall ...

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3. A demo of triad mechanics:

I IV V Triads all over the fretboard: how to master this crucial skill

Another triad bootcamp-style lesson...hooray. Really knowing this stuff will help your playing in so many ways. In this video I recap the basics, explain my ...

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4. Baritone tutorials:

https://m.youtube.com/c/AbigailFlowersMusic/playlists

5. Fiddling about:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NhM4sIeeHYQ


Cheers.

 

[casualmusic]

Look up a thing called the CAGED system. It is mostly for guitar, but you may find the ukulele discussion of CAGED is doing what you are looking at. On a ukulele it may translate to FDCAG in he shapes.

Yup. It’s a great framework to look at in semester 2 or 3 once your fret hand can control basic chords in first position and the plucking hand keeps good time and can play a few patterns.

Meanwhile, I was taught to get *huge* mileage out of *memorizing* the I, IV, V chord families and chord patterns of the most popular and easiest keys.

Chord families are the backbone of songs and knowing the pattern makes songs easy to learn and play.

For each key, I practised switching back and forth between the I, IV, V chords at each session until it’s intuitive and automatic. A freebie is that my brain intuitively knows which chords are the ii, iii, and vi for that key.

The favourite keys for both ukulele and guitar are:

C: C, F, G/G7

D: D, G, A/A7

G: G, C, D/D7

A: A, D, E/E7


Another favourite for GCEA ukulele:

F: F, Bb, C/C7

A favourite for EADGBE guitar (and easy for DGBE baritone):

E: E, A, B/B7

Therefore: the CAGED system for guitars and CFGDA for ukuleles.


So on to Overview + Example:







Cheers.

 

[casualmusic]

Thoughts from another noob: I feel your confusion! I am from a violin background and also do a lot of learning by ear, and boy, have I ever struggled with what you're speaking of.

My suggestion is to take a break from playing single note melodies.

Focus on playing chords in first position. Then chords in other positions up the neck.

This will let your subconscious remap to where the notes are on the ukulele fretboard.

When (or if) you resume it should be easier. Beware you may fall in love with improvising chord melodies, playing finger picking patterns, and collecting cool riffs

I kind of do a weird amalgam of hearing and seeing, since I can sight read on violin, so I'm getting there pretty well for first position on ukulele (and building up for other positions too, with the help of my ear).

Sounds like you are making great use of old and new skills.

I don't necessarily love moving up & down the fretboard as much as I did on the violin, it's feels so different (I'm sure there's a technical reason), so if I like the fingering up the fretboard better than in first position, I'll move the whole thing to a different position.

I’m guessing it has to do with ukulele and guitar sound best in close coupled groupings (voice leading), and it’s common for players to shift their play between zones on the fretboard.

Some arithmetic:
- There are 12 semi tones in and octave. Which is addressed as 7 note keys. And often sharpened into practical 5 note pentatonic scales.
- Strings are 5 or 4 semi tones apart. Which adds up to 14 or 15 semi tones. Which is a bit more than an octave.
- Music passages generally go up and down within an octave range.
- So when the flow calls for notes out side an octave, composers and players revise it or move to another position.

The other thing that totally throws my violin brain is the reentrant tuning (the fourth string NOT being tuned lower than the third and second strings, still so bizarre), but I've subsequently learned some songs that utilize that reentrant tuning beautifully.

My unspeakable opinion is that drone and re-entrant notes are best left to bagpipes and banjos.

And the high G gives up five frets of music that can be used to extend the playable range.